Nailer || Fixing to WF and min thickness 1

Seems like if the nailer gets too thin, it is not worth having. I have used 3/4" before.
IF you need to anchor the plywood more closely than 16" o.c. THEN, what if you added blocking in between the joists/rafters? (Like you show on one side in the bottom late detail.)
Not sure how to adjust for the bottom mounted nailer. Maybe place a joist at either side of the beam?

One thing I see on your detail is the 3/4" bolts at 12" o.c. Typically I spec that the blocking must bear tight on the top of the bottom flange and I don't think the bolts really have to do much work in that case. I typically spec 1/2" diam. at 16" oc staggered.

I like your detail. No nailer. Then put blocking between rafters (ea. side of beam) so you can nail the plywood edge on the blocking

if that upper detail is for a roof, isn't it a designed in leak and rotted wood condition?

Most door require a minimum nailer thickness. So be mindful of that. I had one recently - really high end slider - that I was sure would have an option to fasten to steel. Turns out they didn't. They needed a minimum of 3" of wood all around.

SWC - as long as the beam is sloped and the roof is properly installed, no.

as long as the beam is sloped and the roof is properly installed yeah, well, we all know that doesn't always happen exactly as designed ..... and then the beam sags under heavy wet snow load and water/ice pond up and .....

If the joists are sawn lumber, they will shrink. There should be an air space between the top of steel beam and underside of deck. Otherwise, you will see a hump over every steel beam after the shrinkage takes place.

Might need 2x12 joists or a W6 beam (if you can make that work) to get the proper nailer thickness for the door. What BA said also.

Thank you for the input. It was a W8 with 11.875 deep joist, but that was dropped to 9.5 for arch reasons. For the W8, another option would shift it over a few inches and run a HEADER along the glazing line with the OMF adjacent.



- - With a 3/4" nailer, how did you fix that to the top flange?
- For weld stud on top flange, what is minimum recess? 3/4" bolt nut is nearly 3/4" in thickness. 1/2" stud would seem too small to weld.
- If using engineered lumber like LSL, is air ga still recommended?

3/4" plywood glued to top flange. Might also use power actuated fasteners.

I'm not a fan of welded studs in such a short length. (That wasn't my suggestion.)

Also - I don't like the way you've anchored the header on the right side of the steel beam. Seems like the joists should attach directly to the infill blocking as it is more reliably supported by the bottom flange and the beam. Then the blocking goes in between the joists (as on the .left side?). Just seems more reliable all around. (I did not realize that was a window wall before.)