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Built up wood beams (3)-2x etc 1

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JStructsteel

JStructsteel

Structural
Aug 22, 2002
1,402
So when specifying a triple 2x12, do you folks show it built up with plywood to get to 5.5", or just show the beam, and let the carpenters figure it out?

Does it matter?

Reason I ask, I need to frame into the side of 2x6 posts, and the simpson HUC is 4 11/16", so no room for plywood. Let the installer figure that out?
 
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If you're specifying that hanger, and they add plywood and it doesn't fit, it's on them. If you're not specifying the hanger, they can add the plywood and use a hanger that fits the width. Either way, you should definitely just call out a 3 ply 2x12 beam.
 
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Thanks, does simpson even make a 5.5" standard hanger, or more than likely special order?
In my section, I might showt he beams, and the hanger, and plywood on the outsides
 
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I hate it when they add plywood. The plywood is good for headers because it matches the wall thickness. In nearly every other case, it's a detriment.
 
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PhamENG, this is a built up header in a wall. (3)-2x12 would need the plywood. Would the best detail be leave it off and let them figure out how they want to build up the beam for the sheathing/drywall?
 
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Since you have an atypical situation, I'd detail it and show "plywood as required to match wall thickness" as a dashed line to one or both sides of the header.
 
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I think an HUC612 is for 5 1/2" wide members.
They should be able to figure it out though as the hanger needs to go up first.
The only time i usually call out the plywood is when it is critical to match the wall thicknes - such as when using face mounted straps.
 
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Assuming your beam is in the plane of the wall, thinking a header over a punched opening. We have a lot of folks want to use insulated headers these days and rather than insert insulation between the ply's we've taken to directly attaching the beam plys and shifting the beam one face of the wall. At 3-ply this allows for 1" of rigid insulation to be used on the exterior or interior of the wall panel at the header as the energy consultant sees fit.
 
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I add a note to add solid blocking to fill up the gap. I call it a "squash block," borrowed from my previous boss. If you don't add blocking or plywood, and let the framer figure it out, chances are that they're going to install an insufficient bearing condition.
 
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Why do you need a hanger if it is in the wall? Why not just use trimmers to support the beam?
 
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@ double stud, its at a series of windows, I only have room for a double 2x6, so going to frame into each side.
 
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I see. Yes I have specified concealed hanger before for this application. To be honest, I never think about the thickness as long as it is less than 5.5, but I always specify 3 plies. More than likely they install the header first and use spacer/plywood to install the drywall at the transom header. The plywood spacer will go outside the hanger.
 
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Thanks. I think I am going to start doing this. Let them figure out how they want to fill the space, unless I have specific reason to show it/spec it.
 
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Here's a nice one from a tract house I was looking at yesterday. I am sure that portal frame will function as intended!
pf_ng3mpi.png
 
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"Does Simpson even make a 5.5" standard hanger, or more than likely special order?"

We stock an HGUS5.5/10. I think there are lighter versions of it too.

 
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