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Foundation design for moving a house

TRAK.Structural

Structural
Dec 27, 2023
304
Anyone ever design a new foundation for an existing residential structure that is going be lifted, moved, and set down on the new foundation? I've seen (pictures) of contractors moving an entire house, normally with steel beams to support the structure on some type of trailer/rig, so I know it can be done. Does the contractors moving setup have to be accounted for and detailed around with the new foundation design, or is it common to just put all means/methods on the contractor in this scenario and design the new foundation like that of any other residential structure?
 
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Means and methods. They just leave a gap around the beams so they can be pulled out and then they fill it in. At least that is how it is done around here.
 
When I worked on a job like this as a mason we just built the forms up around the beams and bulkhead around them. We did have a lot of cracking likely due to differential settlement and poor site preparation. The beam pockets were random and varied in size which ended up cracking as well due to their depth and size. Limited space made it difficult to work with all the beams and cribbing. Control joints should have be used due to the number of corners and grade should have never had steps.
 
Means and methods. They just leave a gap around the beams so they can be pulled out and then they fill it in. At least that is how it is done around here.
Makes sense. In the case of CMU foundation walls with a solid grouted top course would you specify some minimum distance away from girders or other point loads for the rigging beams to make sure the cold joint in the grouting from the leave out sections doesn't cause issue? A true bond beam with a continuous bar would be nice but not sure that is practical/buildable?

I would think that the sill plate under wood framed floors above the crawl space would be completely new and attached to the foundation wall per usual; but how does the contractor attach the existing rim/band and the floor joists to the new sill after it gets set down?
 
In the case of CMU foundation walls with a solid grouted top course would you specify some minimum distance away from girders or other point loads for the rigging beams to make sure the cold joint in the grouting from the leave out sections doesn't cause issue?
Never even consider that. Have not seen that as an issue.
I would think that the sill plate under wood framed floors above the crawl space would be completely new and attached to the foundation wall per usual; but how does the contractor attach the existing rim/band and the floor joists to the new sill after it gets set down?
This gets messy. The only sure fire way that i have tried to make this work is to install the sill plate with hanging anchor bolts to the framing prior to the masons coming. Then, when they get to the top course, they knock the face out of the block and grout around the bolts. Probably never actually happens though. It is not a perfect process especially since the house is never really level when the masons come so it ends up staying it that place.
 
Never even consider that. Have not seen that as an issue.

This gets messy. The only sure fire way that i have tried to make this work is to install the sill plate with hanging anchor bolts to the framing prior to the masons coming. Then, when they get to the top course, they knock the face out of the block and grout around the bolts. Probably never actually happens though. It is not a perfect process especially since the house is never really level when the masons come so it ends up staying it that place.
Ever had issue with complaints about cracking/damage of interior finishes being blamed on the foundation/engineering? I can't imagine when they move these things that stuff doesn't start to pop on the inside of the home.
 
Ever had issue with complaints about cracking/damage of interior finishes being blamed on the foundation/engineering? I can't imagine when they move these things that stuff doesn't start to pop on the inside of the home.
Lot less than you would think. Good lifting contractors pick up and move a house and you would never even know. It's when you are jacking up only an end wall or center bearing point to level a floor you notice a lot more internal issues.
 
We do a ton of these types of foundations and not once did we ever have to worry about means and methods as XR said.

Typically if it's a block foundation they'll add at least one new sill plate and then we'll detail some type of uplift connector to the framing depending on the setup.
 
Ever had issue with complaints about cracking/damage of interior finishes being blamed on the foundation/engineering? I can't imagine when they move these things that stuff doesn't start to pop on the inside of the home.
No but honestly, it is to be expected. The footings are usually hand dug and not great. If you are having a foundation problem, it is likely the soil, not the concrete or masonry.
 
We do a ton of these types of foundations and not once did we ever have to worry about means and methods as XR said.

Typically if it's a block foundation they'll add at least one new sill plate and then we'll detail some type of uplift connector to the framing depending on the setup.
I guess if the masons can reasonably build the foundation under a house supported by beams than I should be able to ask for some connectors from the existing band/rim down to the sill plate. Maybe some Simpson framing angles or other miscellaneous connectors will work.

No but honestly, it is to be expected. The footings are usually hand dug and not great. If you are having a foundation problem, it is likely the soil, not the concrete or masonry.
Probably true.
 
I guess if the masons can reasonably build the foundation under a house supported by beams than I should be able to ask for some connectors from the existing band/rim down to the sill plate. Maybe some Simpson framing angles or other miscellaneous connectors will work.
99% of lift jobs are because of flood zones and that also correlates with high wind area so uplift connections are always a focus around here.

There are a number of different Simpson straps and hurricane ties that we use depending on situation.

Some houses are slab on grades to start so you have to build a new 1st floor after it's lifted. Some are on crawls. Some are already on piles and they want to go up higher. Many get new siding in the process so strapping from exterior side is doable as well.
 
Some houses are slab on grades to start so you have to build a new 1st floor after it's lifted. Some are on crawls. Some are already on piles and they want to go up higher. Many get new siding in the process so strapping from exterior side is doable as well.
How do you lift a house that's on a slab?
 
99% of lift jobs are because of flood zones and that also correlates with high wind area so uplift connections are always a focus around here.
Most around here are just because of crappy foundations and/or low crawlspaces
 
How do you lift a house that's on a slab?
Cut sheetrock up a few feet and install ledgers all around. Usually they are single story ranches so they are light anyway.

Most around here are just because of crappy foundations and/or low crawlspaces
Definitely rare in NJ to lift without being in a flood zone (or environmental problem). Do you usually raise houses a full story up or put them back down low?
 
Definitely rare in NJ to lift without being in a flood zone (or environmental problem). Do you usually raise houses a full story up or put them back down low?
Mostly just raise them a few feet to make the crawlspace more accessible.
 
Cut sheetrock up a few feet and install ledgers all around. Usually they are single story ranches so they are light anyway.
Interesting.

Mostly just raise them a few feet to make the crawlspace more accessible.
The job I'm considering is moving the home to an adjacent lot, probably more difficult than just lifting, but that's the contractors job to sort.
 

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