Exterior stone veneer & Rigid insulation

[DoubleStud]

I am working with an architect where he wants to put 2" rigid insulation on the exterior face of the concrete basement wall. Then above that, we will have stick framed wall with ZIP-R system (1" insulation). So the face of the plywood Zip-R system will stick out 1.5" from the face of the concrete. Then at the concrete we have that 2" rigid insulation. How would you support the stone veneer on the exterior wall? Would you just stack CMU right in front of the 2" rigid insulation? The CMU will stack about 10 ft tall. Then put the stone veneer on top of it? How would you do it?

 

[Ron247]

If I am reading your post correctly, the top of concrete wall should be about 6" or more above the ground. So, the stone would have to extend from there up. How much air gap is required between the stone and ZIP-R?

I guess you did not build a exterior brick ledge below grade so you must extend the stone support to the footing. Is that correct?

 

[jhnblgr]

Galvanized Steel angle bolted to the wall

 

[DoubleStud]

If I am reading your post correctly, the top of concrete wall should be about 6" or more above the ground. So, the stone would have to extend from there up. How much air gap is required between the stone and ZIP-R?

I guess you did not build a exterior brick ledge below grade so you must extend the stone support to the footing. Is that correct?

That is correct. All the way to the footing is what I am thinking.

 

[DoubleStud]

Galvanized Steel angle bolted to the wall

The zip R system and the rigid foam makes the stone veneer too far away from face of the concrete. Probably a bad idea to use steel angle

 

[Respawn]

I have typically seen builder block—essentially a type of CMU—used from the footing up to the point where the stone veneer is supported. In most cases, I recommend one of two options: either blocks or a steel angle. However, given the distance of the stone veneer from the structural elements, as noted in this discussion, the block option appears to be the most appropriate solution.

 

[DoubleStud]

I have typically seen builder block—essentially a type of CMU—used from the footing up to the point where the stone veneer is supported. In most cases, I recommend one of two options: either blocks or a steel angle. However, given the distance of the stone veneer from the structural elements, as noted in this discussion, the block option appears to be the most appropriate solution.

Just dry stack the CMU and backfill?

 

[Respawn]

Just dry stack the CMU and backfill?

I'm uncertain about the dry stack approach in this context. In similar situations, I’ve seen the use of dowels installed directly into the footing, and in some cases, the method of support is left to the contractor's means and methods. Another viable option is to pour a narrower footing, approximately 8 inches wide, that can be drilled and epoxied to the side of the main footing. Usually if the load is light and it can help with construction sequencing.

 

[phamENG]

I am working with an architect where he wants to put 2" rigid insulation on the exterior face of the concrete basement wall. Then above that, we will have stick framed wall with ZIP-R system (1" insulation). So the face of the plywood Zip-R system will stick out 1.5" from the face of the concrete. Then at the concrete we have that 2" rigid insulation. How would you support the stone veneer on the exterior wall? Would you just stack CMU right in front of the 2" rigid insulation? The CMU will stack about 10 ft tall. Then put the stone veneer on top of it? How would you do it?

I'd do it just like you're describing. But no dry stack. Build a CMU - probably 4" CMU depending on the veneer thickness - and then run your veneer up on top of that. The CMU will require ties back to the concrete through the 2" insulation.

It's veneer from the footing all the way up - you just change from ugly to pretty right before it becomes visible above grade.

 

[DoubleStud]

I'd do it just like you're describing. But no dry stack. Build a CMU - probably 4" CMU depending on the veneer thickness - and then run your veneer up on top of that. The CMU will require ties back to the concrete through the 2" insulation.

It's veneer from the footing all the way up - you just change from ugly to pretty right before it becomes visible above grade.

why do you need to tie back the cmu? Wouldnt the pressure of the backfill will keep them against the 2" insulation? Also from reading the spec on the zip R, I will need 1" air gap also. I think I will specify 6" CMU.

 

[jhnblgr]

I’ve seen contractors just fill the blocks with concrete from the top, however 4” blocks might need a grout mix for this to work