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Yes, it is. I've already swapped in a 4t80e from a Northstar-equipped Caddy, with a limited-slip differential and bumped shift pressures. It would still destroy that trans if I had traction and was launching...but when would I ever have standing traction with that amount of power? I don't...

I went so far as burning up a couple alternators back about 10 years ago attempting to create enough "HHO" to make a measureable difference at all. That was a VERY large plate, probably at least 20x the capacity of most of the "kits" you see...and still really did a whole lot of nothing...

Well I would tend to agree with that. But it's not always going to be breaking stuff. The L32 bottom ends have seen 800+whp, so I don't think it's a stretch at all to expect some reliability out of it once I get the supercharged bottom end back in. It's really not like I will be able to push...

Pretty darn serious. I've been slowly upgrading the car over the last 4 years. Cuz why not? It's been twincharged for about a year now, fighting one hurdle after another. I had finally gotten all the major bugs worked out and was tuning and turning the boost up when it popped a rod at around...

Good to know.

You are 100% correct, it is a power figure based on blower RPM (or in this case CFM which is directly tied to RPM) and torque requirements are the same across the board. However, I was under the impression it was this HP demand that causes belt slip, not the torque. Am I incorrect that HP is a...

Good point. I had never thought of scavenge in terms of relative pressure and had always seen it referenced in terms of the exhaust pulses literally pulling vacuum on adjacent emptying cylinders, but thinking about it in terms of the residual exhaust and chamber pressure vs intake pressure it...

Thanks. They have been fine up until this point but I was intending to raise the boost significantly when I get the new engine in. I will leave it alone unless I run into problems.

So in other words you don't think that under any circumstances boost pressures high enough to mathematically (due to valve area, neglecting to consider what pressure may or may not be in the chamber) lift my valves off the seat would blow my valves open, but I will eventually at some speed...

I should add that I am currently running 105# seat pressure springs, I believe 293# open pressure. Due to still having stock lift, I can shim these springs up to as much as .189" before getting to the manufacturer's recommended minimum open height. Looking for input on whether I should leave...

I am interested in the answers to these questions as well...I am running a similar compound boost setup (large turbo feeding an eaton TVS2300 blower) on a Buick 3800, which is a 2-valve engine and has stupid large valve diameters as a result. I am capable of running tremendous boost numbers at...

I've taken .050" off on multiple high compression builds before. Cam timing becomes a factor when you're taking a bunch off but if you do the math, it's not as much as many people believe...it was like 2 degrees in my case, even with the extreme of milling .050" off. In effect, I've milled off...

I agree. Sounds exactly like a battery cable going bad. I see this on cars in the shop all the time. Intermittent no-starts, often times won't even jump-start unless you go straight to the starter with the cable. Almost always a corroded or loose battery cable or ground strap somewhere.

Well, I guess I was making this a lot harder than it needed to be. Of everything I've tested so far, the BEST candidate by far is the fuel lube that I've already been using. There is no visible separation whatsoever even at much higher doses than would typically be used. Corrosion protection...

Yes, that's definitely one of the changes you have to make for methanol...paper filters are no good. Gotta go to a coarser, strainer-type filter with a stainless element. Thanks!

I'm currently testing 4 lubricants in jars right now in a 70/30 methanol/water mix. This is more water than I ever plan on running, so it should be a good test. I have a couple hopeful candidates and a couple that clear are not going to work. If nothing settles out after a week, I'll start...

Yes, I warm it up on propane when it's cool or cold out. Are you suggesting nitrous as additional charge cooling? I do have a nitrous setup in the works with propane for the fuel side of things and while that will certainly net me a lot more charge cooling, it will add considerably to the...

Hemi, you beat me to explaining my reasoning/purpose for still having water injection. You hit the nail on the head though, I'm looking for extra safety in terms of detonation and pre-ignition resistance, and perhaps to help prevent exhaust valve overheating.

I had considered a couple nozzles in the lower intake. Figured if I was going to that much trouble I should just go direct port...and then figured that would add another huge layer of expense and complication to that car. Since I have the unique advantage being on straight methanol as opposed...

A little more information: I do have a methanol-rated injectors with supposedly all stainless-steel guts, and have done my homework on methanol compatibility with all my fuel system components...so I'm not 100% sure I really NEED a lube, but I would like to have a little extra peace of mind...