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ok, thus assuming a continuous temperature variation ranging from 0 to 30° which could be the annual one from winter to summer, the microstructural changes will continue indefinitely or for a given temperature range it will only be possible to arrive at a certain type of change and then stabilize ?

Thanks Ed, I read that even at room temperature there are changes in the strength and resistance of the metals, natural age hardening, does this not mean that over time the characteristics of the piece will change? If we think of the daily temperature changes, don't these have an effect? Is this...

improves up to a certain point and then stops I guess ?

hello everyone, do aluminum alloy or steel motorcycle frames change their microstructural characteristics over time even without the vehicle being used? Assuming you have two identical frames, one many years old perfectly preserved and sealed, the other new from the factory, both without work...

Good evening everyone, I'm restoring a vintage car that has some corrosion points (rust) inside the overlapping joints of the sheet metal, nothing serious but it is present. On the inside of the body I tried to lift the metal near some spot welds and I noticed that practically every spot weld...

Hello everyone, I ask for some clarifications on aluminum from those who can help me. First info: let's assume a painted aluminum surface that is scratched in a small spot with a non-humid climate, if it were steel we would see rust over time, but being aluminum will it protect itself even if...

ok guys thanks for the information, so to recap, wanting to keep "forever" an aluminum frame in non-use conditions, like a museum, the best thing to do is wash it well with neutral detergent, dry the interstices and the points where the water could collect and leave it naked as it is. No cavity...

I don't understand one thing, if the paint does not allow the oxide layer to form, isn't it a bit the same thing that should happen when you screw bolts into the threaded frame? The screw scrapes off the oxide protection and then tightens with the frame, yet usually the threads are healthier...

what a complicated material that aluminum is ... painting it is complicated, keeping it greasy is not good ... are there no treatments similar to cataphoresis for steel? is anodizing also possible on large parts? are there any contraindications?

ok thanks, so if I had to polish an aluminum motorbike frame to a mirror effect like it did when it left the factory, I would just go and remove the protective barrier that has formed over the years, right? Will this reform in a short time? are there any contraindications or aspect to focus on...

Hello, I would like to ask a few things about aluminum: the protective oxide layer that forms spontaneously in contact with air, in the absence of corrosive agents,in normal room temperature, no water or mechanical actions, remains unchanged over time, continuing to protect the underlying...

Hello friends, i have a question about this motorbike frame in aluminum alloy. over time, the mirror polishing has oxidized and I wondered, is it aluminum that protects itself? in the absence of corrosive agents it should remain so and the corrosion stops by itself, right?

Thanks for the info guys, i still have some questions please: living for example near the sea, would the salty air not lead to a quick oxidation of the frame? Those who live near the sea usually tend to protect their vehicles with various grease and waxes and for steel the problem is solved...

Hello everyone, I would like to ask the experts if anyone could explain to me the pitting and intergranural corrosion in aluminum, is it a type of corrosion that develops even without the use of the vehicle? As a motorcycle and car collector I am always worried about the corrosion of the...

Mmm ok , do you think I can use new ones for dry marking till 100nm , remove, lubricate and then retorque till the mark and 1/4 turn? I don’t think they will stretch for 100nm, since they are made for 100 and 1/4 turn

I know , I will use the old bolts to mark the sign and then switch to new ones

I think that by tightening the bolt to 100nm, marking where it arrives, removing it and putting it back by applying the lubricant until it reaches the same point is an adequate solution, after which I can give the last 1/4 turn. I will use the original bolts and stick to the workshop manual...

The threads are around 1-1,5cm. Torque is 100nm and then 1/4 of turn. I then should try to check how much difference there is dry/wet for the 100nm marking the bolt and the chassis

That’s a lot of stuff mate, as for the materials there are no problems because I will take new and original bolts, so I will stick to what is foreseen in the workshop manual, my doubt concerned the internal corrosion of the thread, I imagine that when tightening a part of the internal coating...

I looked at many products but almost all of them seem to have something like it, metals or petroleum, in practice there is only the normal silicone grease, the one that gives on the rubber seals. you say it could go? I also have some cavity wax jut in case. What about Teflon grease? Is...