LittleInch. originally that's how I did have it hooked up but reversed the lines when trying to diagnose this issue. Either direction didn't have any effect on the issue. I'm still not totally thrilled with the performance. So I am waiting on a new valve to come in. A 'true' needle valve with...
I did replace the lines with more rigid lines and it has solved the issue. I appreciate everyone's time and advice, it was good looking out! Thanks again
3DDave, I can do that. I've gotta go out into the field this morning so ill give it a shot this afternoon when I'm back in the shop. Original part number is Parker N200B 2000 psi/138 bar
Removing fluid or filling even more fluid and the new larger lines didn't make any change. It would seem that LittleInch might be right with the valve just not being the correct size, at least that's the only thing I haven't tested yet. Im not sure how I'm going to. Unless I can find a lower bar...
Is there a good method to reduce bar without changing out the valve just for testing? I tried clamping the line and left the existing needle valve open all the way and then slowly cranking out the clamp and that didn't result in any changes. I think LittleInch is correct about the valve being...
3DDave, the fill procedure for the OEM application is lower the bow so the cylinder is fully down and just fill until fluid drips out of the fill port. Which I've kept the same since I've implemented this new valve but I will suck some of the fluid out and see if that helps. There is some drop...
I did pull it apart to look and to make sure there were no burrs or machining swarf left in there but I didn't see anything. I tried to keep all the orifice sizes the same as the OEM setup but I overlooked the ID of the tubing itself and that's at .0625" ID while everything else is .188" ID. I'm...
I have tried every single suggestion that's been made. If your ego cant handle the fact that your suggestions are wrong, then that's a you problem my dude. I'm happy to provide any and all information I possibly can and I've done my best to do that. If someone feels there's information missing...
That's because as described there IS an air pocket at the rod end of the cylinder, I'm unaware of any way to implement a vent plug into this system without losing fluid through it. In my video I do explain the issue, It doesn't show it because the minute movements are difficult to show on video...
Hacksaw, It acts as a damper not a shock absorber. It is not suppose to provide any recoil. The saw itself has two coil springs located at the rear of the bow to counteract the weight of the bow, even with those removed, it provides no change. Im not entirely sure what the point of your comment...
I just installed a bleeder valve as well as unbolted the valve body and lowered it below the cylinder opened both the needle valve and the toggle valve and cycled the hydraulic cylinder several times and no air seems to be present. It did not correct the issue.
The brass valve at the top is simply a fill port and it is a plug, that's from the factory. I didn't add or change that. The piston never reaches above the top fitting or below the bottom fitting. There is definitely air that remains in the top of the cylinder, there is still a cavity above the...
Let me know if this helpshttps://res.cloudinary.com/engineering-com/video/upload/v1697724835/tips/10000000_6695546077159581_2585644868945899474_n_ncjs77.mp4
