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I repair these motors all the time and would agree that a standard motor should draw around 7 amps no load. The only easy answer for you is to reinstall it and run it under load! If it stays at nameplate amps... Just keep using it!

It's cheaper in the initial installation. The higher voltage means you can buy a smaller wire size and related controls.

You should consider the stresses to the shaft when instantly reversing it. Breaking it can get expensive too!

It's an old book, but The Growler by Samuel Heller has a lot of information that may be helpfull!

http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/Lectra+Clean?openDocument They also have a cheaper automotive version sold at car parts stores. Both available in the US.

This may be of some interest... http://easa.com/news/c0506.pdf See page 3.

The resistor adds longer life to both the start switch contacts and the capacitor. Which then prolongs the life of the motor.

That is correct. The capacitors stored DC charge energizing the start winding, as the motor slows and the switch closes, is what can brake a motor. Not the resistor.

Start capacitors with bleed resisters can be found in a lot of quality single phase motors. They help increase the life of the capacitor and bleed the voltage off. When the motor is shut off and the centrifugal switch closes, the excess cap voltage can instantly brake the motor too.

See also... http://www.leeson.com/servicesupport/troubleshooting.htm

Braking effect.

Electric motor shops that service submersibles will also carry that type of oil.

There are books for design from stator dimensions I can look at. I need dimensions though!

If you provide the RPM, stator length & I.D., I may be able to post data close to those specks for each.

Yes. My second post has a link.

The PSC motors I listed can also be slowed too, if you need that option.. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=48 Bottom of page.

This may work... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=196

Using DC and a compass is one way if you remove the rotor. If the motor is dual voltage and you have access to low voltage you can connect the motor high and do trial and error by "bump" testing. Of course, these suggestions are far more practical if its on a small motor and not connected to the...

Extension cords used?

Four poles have a longer bearing life, more torque and are typically cheaper to purchase.