I repair these motors all the time and would agree that a standard motor should draw around 7 amps no load.
The only easy answer for you is to reinstall it and run it under load!
If it stays at nameplate amps... Just keep using it!
http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/Lectra+Clean?openDocument
They also have a cheaper automotive version sold at car parts stores. Both available in the US.
That is correct.
The capacitors stored DC charge energizing the start winding, as the motor slows and the switch closes, is what can brake a motor. Not the resistor.
Start capacitors with bleed resisters can be found in a lot of quality single phase motors. They help increase the life of the capacitor and bleed the voltage off. When the motor is shut off and the centrifugal switch closes, the excess cap voltage can instantly brake the motor too.
The PSC motors I listed can also be slowed too, if you need that option..
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=48
Bottom of page.
Using DC and a compass is one way if you remove the rotor.
If the motor is dual voltage and you have access to low voltage you can connect the motor high and do trial and error by "bump" testing. Of course, these suggestions are far more practical if its on a small motor and not connected to the...