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TVP, thanks for the link. I will review the Goodman method.

Hi All, I have an application in which a piece of 1100 untempered Al us bent around a ~2" radius, and then re-formed back to its original flat shape (it starts as a flat sheet). The part is 2" wide x ~6" long x .040" thick, and is bent almost 180 deg around the aforementioned radius by hand...

Thanks, Mike. I think you're right that I may be asking too much of this material. I'll get a hold of some Al and see how it behaves. Thanks again for your input.

Mike, thanks so much for the tip! And great idea about making it replaceable. For this particular application they'll be sealed off, though. Do you think the -0 temper Al will hold up to the fatigue?

I'm selecting a metal material for a project in which the metal needs to be ductile (high plasticity) in order to hand-form minor bends, yet rigid enough once formed to hold its shape when small loads (~ 1 lb)are placed on the formed faces. The forming will happen often (perhaps a hundred...

I've done many google searches and found several companies I think would work, but I've never worked with this sort of material before and thought there might be a few people in a professional forum like this with direct experience with relevant companies. The one thing I did not expect was to...

Hi All, I am working on the design of a product which will require a semi-rigid foam - think of a case for an iPod...something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Samba-Travel-JBuds-Earbuds-Jacquard/dp/B001GS8G2O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1312474994&sr=8-3 Can anyone recommend a few vendors that...

sreid, The Parylene coating is a very intriguing idea - I will look into that, thanks!

unclesyd, thank you very much for the recommendation. Is the Tedlar superior to Kapton in terms of electrical resistance (to act as an insulator)? Is it easier to process, etc? Why might one use a Tedlar backing as opposed to Kapton for my application?

Mike, The trouble with plastic or wood is the strength. The part is only .010" (or possibly less) thick x ~.25" diameter, and it needs to locate another part, so we want to make sure it's not flimsy at all and that it does not deflect or bend. Not much load will be placed on it, though, so a...

Thank you, MintJulep. Can Kapton be cut very precisely? Would it be possible to apply the kapton to the steel sheet (via adhesive) before cutting, and then laser cut both steel and kapton at the same time so that the kapton profile matches up precisely with the steel kapton?

Hi IRStuff, I am actually trying to prevent the voltage going through this part. I want to insulate it from a voltage passing through a circuit beneath it. I believe anodizing can only be done on Al, no? Also, does anodizing electrically insulate its base substrate?

At this point changing the design is not ideal. My concern with powder coating is that it would be too thick and possibly not precisely enough controlled.

Hi, I have a small stainless part (think washer, but irregularly shaped) that is about .250" in diameter and between .005" and .010" thick. The part holds a mating piece in position and is designed with fairly tight tolerances (+/- .001" around the profile). I need to electrically insulate...

Thanks so much for all the help, everyone.

What about a 1075 or 1095? I've seen theses grades in McMaster spring stock. Are they comparable to 17-7 or 302? http://www.mcmaster.com/#spring-steel-shim-stock/=c9hivo

Thanks guys. And do the grades you've listed above qualify as "spring steel"? Would they be appropriate to use for something like this: http://seastromwashers.com/SpringWasherPricingRequest.aspx?productNumber=5804-166-2

Hi All, Can anyone tell me what grade of stainless steel can be used for a spring (curved spring washer) and will have magnetic properties? Thanks!

I was looking at an Al alloy, but yes you're right. The straight Al turned out to be better.

I have an LED emitting a fairly constant amount of heat so sounds like thermal conductivity is the winner. Thanks for your help.