I work in a lab where several gears, shafts, etc. are 1045 CS. I was tasked by my advisor to look into methods that help prevent corrosion. These components are used in walking robots in normal room settings, so no moisture minus lubrication on the gear teeth and oils from skin contact. Typically I would get these components with a black-oxide finish (or just get 400 SS), but that isn't always an option. Not sure if anyone has any simple tricks/products that can be done in a garage setting (really don't want to send things out). A huge thank you in advance!
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1045 CS - Corrosion Prevention 2
- Thread starter gb2835
- Start date
EdStainless
Materials
There are corrosion inhibiting oils that are very light and meant to flash off just leaving the inhibitors.
Or adding small amounts of the inhibitors to your existing lubricant might also work.
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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
Or adding small amounts of the inhibitors to your existing lubricant might also work.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
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TugboatEng
Marine/Ocean
Krytox has sodium nitrite inhibited greases. Look for GPL 225 as an example.
GPL stands for general purpose lubricant.
-2 is grease (1 is oil)
-2 is anti-corrosion, 9 is anti-corrosion +EP, E is alternative inhibitors.
-5 is base oil viscosity ISO 220
Otherwise, look for shear stable grease. They don't separate over time so they don't dry out like conventional greases. Polyurea greases are shear stable. You can get them with tackifiers to help them stay in place.
GPL stands for general purpose lubricant.
-2 is grease (1 is oil)
-2 is anti-corrosion, 9 is anti-corrosion +EP, E is alternative inhibitors.
-5 is base oil viscosity ISO 220
Otherwise, look for shear stable grease. They don't separate over time so they don't dry out like conventional greases. Polyurea greases are shear stable. You can get them with tackifiers to help them stay in place.
- Thread starter
- #4
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1
- #6
EdStainless
Materials
I like Krytox, very good lubrication and very stable.
But you should know that there is no solvent for it.
It is fluoropolymer based and if you get it in the wrong place you can be in trouble.
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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
But you should know that there is no solvent for it.
It is fluoropolymer based and if you get it in the wrong place you can be in trouble.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
TugboatEng
Marine/Ocean
There is a remover available now.
Then again, I wouldn't call a solvent a remover. A solvent is more of a thin it out until you can't tell it's there but it is still there chemical. They claim it leaves no residue but that's likely the solvent itself that leaves no residue of itself.
Boeshield T-9 lists "sodium salts" in its SDS. This likely refers to sodium nitrite which is good for corrosion protection.
Then again, I wouldn't call a solvent a remover. A solvent is more of a thin it out until you can't tell it's there but it is still there chemical. They claim it leaves no residue but that's likely the solvent itself that leaves no residue of itself.
Boeshield T-9 lists "sodium salts" in its SDS. This likely refers to sodium nitrite which is good for corrosion protection.
EdStainless
Materials
TBE, that remover works as long as you don't need to paint or glue to that surface.
If you use the remover and then blast you can get a clean surface.
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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
If you use the remover and then blast you can get a clean surface.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
TugboatEng
Marine/Ocean
That's true for all solvents. They thin the material so the surface appears clean but there is still a molecule thick layer on the surface. Not good for adhesion. I strongly suggest the use of detergents for cleaning prior to etching or painting. Detergents chemically break the substance down.
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