Adding brick ledge to existing foundation 1

[bhiggins]

Hi Eng-tippers!

Does anyone have any good details for adding a brick ledge to an existing foundation? I provided a detail to the contractor, but this particular detail will not work because the existing foundation only extends 8" into grade.

I'm trying to come up with an alternate detail that would work. I'm reluctant to specify adding a standard 5 1/2" wide brick ledge because of inadequate bar development like this detail:

I'm worried that the new concrete can de-laminate from the existing due to only having 2-3 inches of bar development. Has anyone had any success with such a detail in the past? Does anyone have a suggestion for a better detail? The foundation bears on good quality limestone.

 

[jayrod12]

Could you do galvanized steel angles with adhesive anchors?

 

[mmarlow]

I feel like a shelf angle would be much more practical. Galvanized, of course, like Jayrod12 said

-MMARLOW EIT

 

[JAE]

I would want to develop my hooks into the concrete (i.e. use your first image above) but with the "U" bar extended around the continuous bars I'm not sure I'd be as worried....but just a bit worried.

I'd still prefer the first detail as it provides an added soil bearing for the brick weight while not depending totally on the dowels.

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[NorthCivil]

These two details you show are way overkill, unless the existing foundation is 100 year old backyard concrete.

a shelf angle drilled and bolted with an epoxy set with into existing concrete is a much more practical solution as mentioned above.

 

[Ron247]

Only 8" into grade can be a problem to start with since most foundations are generally at least 12" into the ground. If it is only 8" into the ground, how wide is it? I do not know how tall your brick is, but that added weight and eccentricity may need something closer to your first detail depending on the true parameters of your project. If this is 1-story house, you are adding a lot of weight on the edge of a possibly narrow foundation that originally possibly had half the actual weight compared to what you are adding.

 

[JAE]

The shelf angle idea is fine for southern climates where frost heave isn't an issue. If you have possible frost heave, the angle would have to be set below that level and in most cases with deeper frost levels, a buried angle can and does rust away eventually - even a galvanized angle.

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[dhengr]

Bhiggins:
I wouldn’t put the clay brick down into the soil, they should start 6-8” above grade. I would look for an angle or a channel made out of fiberglass or FRP and some SS expansion bolts or some such. There are several outfits which make a limited selection of structural shapes out of FRP materials for particularly corrosive environments. Of course, this assumes that the existing ftg./found. is still adequate with the added load.

 

[masonrygeek]

BIA has a technical note on this subject:

http://www.gobrick.com/docs/default...veneer-to-existing-construction.pdf?sfvrsn=0.

I think a steel angle is perfectly fine as long as it has adequate corrosion protection and detailing has ensured that frost heave won't affect the new wall (i.e. gravel backfill, drains, etc.).

And I hate to bring this up here, but have you thought about thin brick veneer assemblies? While not as durable/robust as a typical anchored brick veneer, this may be appropriate if this is for a home.

 

[haynewp]

We've used the first detail type geometry a couple of times before.