Amada FO3015 Cutting Stainless with Plastic coating

[RPosty]

I was just asked if there is some code to use to make cutting plastic coated SS go smoother. I looked in books, but nothing is jumping out at me.

Bonus Question: Anyone use Glycol or synthetic chiller fluid in their Amada FO3015 system with a Fanuc C4000 Resonator? The Fanuc book recommends water with additives. Seems to me that Heat Transfer Fluids would be way better for a machine. We use Dowtherm SR-1 in our other machines. What are your choices and experiences with cooling systems?

"I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, 'cause they are stuck on me"

 

[RPosty]

Have some more info:

They think what they are looking for is some code that has the head come down and do a small pre-etch to move the plastic away before it actually pierces. Our Controller is a 160i, If this is documented somewhere, I would like to know where so I can see what other goodies I may find.

"I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, 'cause they are stuck on me"

 

[RPosty]

I apologize, I found the search button and found the answers on this thread:

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=264427

The solution for those searching is changing Macro M103 to M134 which had the head come partially down and do a quick circle out of focus to melt the plastic away before it pierced. This worked beautifully. The other suggestion by LASERNINJA™ we did not try was altering Macro 912 gas delay to "0". we shall keep that in our utility belt for now.


still curious about heat transfer fluid options and opinions.

"I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, 'cause they are stuck on me"

 

[GrouperGenius]

We have an Amada 2415 with Fanuc control. We cut primarily S/S and if you go into cut conditions click on pierce condition change type from 0 to 135.

On ours, that brings the nozzle to about 1" off material, quick shot and clears about 1/4" of the plastic. Then cut away.

 

[Fusion2186]

If you have the option, you can use the B cut setting as well. if you combine it with M134 it will vaporize the plastic on the toop, then come down and make a very small hole after the pierce to use as a lead in point. i've had luck with this before when cutting thick SS or AL that has the film on it.

 

[krugtech]

are you using stainless wiht "laser" plastic on it? it won't bubble up from the gas jet and can sometimes be cut w/o preburn which means more production.

Chris Krug

http://krugtech.com/

Maximum Up-time, Minimum BS