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Anti-dive w/ strut?
- Thread starter wrheadle
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patprimmer
New member
In my experience it NEVER pays to drive your race car on the street even if it is a street legal class.
1) You want the expensive race part to be in tip top order when you race, not half worn out.
2) Expensive race parts are mostly stronger than stock, but sometimes are not nearly as wear resistant.
3) If you crash or break your race car your daily driver is gone.
4) To keep your race car competitive, you will often have it of the road to perform lots of work. Once again, no transport if it is also your daily driver.
5) What do you drive when you go to pick parts for the race car.
6) You don't need a trailer and all the paraphernalia. You can do a deal with your local tilt tray car recovery operator. You can even drive your race car on the road occasionally and to and from meets, but if you break it you need a tilt bed at non negotiable rates.
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1) You want the expensive race part to be in tip top order when you race, not half worn out.
2) Expensive race parts are mostly stronger than stock, but sometimes are not nearly as wear resistant.
3) If you crash or break your race car your daily driver is gone.
4) To keep your race car competitive, you will often have it of the road to perform lots of work. Once again, no transport if it is also your daily driver.
5) What do you drive when you go to pick parts for the race car.
6) You don't need a trailer and all the paraphernalia. You can do a deal with your local tilt tray car recovery operator. You can even drive your race car on the road occasionally and to and from meets, but if you break it you need a tilt bed at non negotiable rates.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.
This is also true Pat, and not to sound like a smart a$$, I have thought of most of these issues ...
1)it is our 2nd car (no 1 car is a subaru Liberty wagon) so doesn't see a lot of road kms
2)With subarus there is so much interchangability that most parts will just be late model STI parts (6 speed with DCCD, rear diff/axles, etc)
3) another impreza shell for $4k, get the mrs to drive me to work for a little while or get fit and start jogging/cycling
4)Most work should be able to be done in a weekend ( I have already done 6 speed conversion to a friends 92 subaru in 3/4 of a day) I aim to have all parts for a particular job before starting it.
5) see 1)
6)Local for us here in Australia is not that local and would cost several hundred dollars every meeting without a trailer.
3rd car in the family is then another cost but will come later.
Also you miss a big factor here, I look forward to my drive to and from work at the moment which if it were just a commuter this would be lost. Whatever car I drive I like it to be enjoyable. (even the No 1 family car is a 3.0 H6, 6 speed manual!)
I guess it comes down partly to most of motorsport on a club level doesn't make any financial sense, yes some things are smarter ways but overall there is some personal preferences in it all.
1)it is our 2nd car (no 1 car is a subaru Liberty wagon) so doesn't see a lot of road kms
2)With subarus there is so much interchangability that most parts will just be late model STI parts (6 speed with DCCD, rear diff/axles, etc)
3) another impreza shell for $4k, get the mrs to drive me to work for a little while or get fit and start jogging/cycling
4)Most work should be able to be done in a weekend ( I have already done 6 speed conversion to a friends 92 subaru in 3/4 of a day) I aim to have all parts for a particular job before starting it.
5) see 1)
6)Local for us here in Australia is not that local and would cost several hundred dollars every meeting without a trailer.
3rd car in the family is then another cost but will come later.
Also you miss a big factor here, I look forward to my drive to and from work at the moment which if it were just a commuter this would be lost. Whatever car I drive I like it to be enjoyable. (even the No 1 family car is a 3.0 H6, 6 speed manual!)
I guess it comes down partly to most of motorsport on a club level doesn't make any financial sense, yes some things are smarter ways but overall there is some personal preferences in it all.
patprimmer
New member
To hijack your thread.
How hard and expensive was the 6 speed conversion for the H6.
I have considered a H6, but I occasionally tow a heavy trailer with a veteran car in it and automatics always blow up shortly after. A blown manual transmission clutch is a much more palatable failure if you have to have a failure.
The Subaru Liberty H6 seems very good value here in Sydney at the moment.
I can do most things, but I hve no first hand experience with Subaru and what fits with wha, and what are the good parts and what breaks and what is bolt in and forget with them.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.
How hard and expensive was the 6 speed conversion for the H6.
I have considered a H6, but I occasionally tow a heavy trailer with a veteran car in it and automatics always blow up shortly after. A blown manual transmission clutch is a much more palatable failure if you have to have a failure.
The Subaru Liberty H6 seems very good value here in Sydney at the moment.
I can do most things, but I hve no first hand experience with Subaru and what fits with wha, and what are the good parts and what breaks and what is bolt in and forget with them.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.
Ahh, sorry there may have been some confusion.
The Liberty H6 is the 3.0 RB which is a factory 6 speed.
The conversion was done to a 92 RS liberty that has a STI 2.5L engine.
The conversion would be similar with the H6, just need the right assortment of parts and everything basically bolts in.
For the towing auto consider a good (no just the OE option) transmission cooler. I would recommend the 2.5L turbo engines for a good tow vehicle, plenty of torque!!
the 6 speed is a very strong and reliable unit, larger clutch than the 5 speeds also
See here for good info on subarus
The liberty H6 has an impressive legal tow capacity also at 1800kg for a braked trailer!
Pat, do I know your name from Australia F3 or am I thinking of another Pat??
I am on the central coast so tracks are a little further for me (wakefield park is a trip! EC is easier!).
The Liberty H6 is the 3.0 RB which is a factory 6 speed.
The conversion was done to a 92 RS liberty that has a STI 2.5L engine.
The conversion would be similar with the H6, just need the right assortment of parts and everything basically bolts in.
For the towing auto consider a good (no just the OE option) transmission cooler. I would recommend the 2.5L turbo engines for a good tow vehicle, plenty of torque!!
the 6 speed is a very strong and reliable unit, larger clutch than the 5 speeds also
See here for good info on subarus
The liberty H6 has an impressive legal tow capacity also at 1800kg for a braked trailer!
Pat, do I know your name from Australia F3 or am I thinking of another Pat??
I am on the central coast so tracks are a little further for me (wakefield park is a trip! EC is easier!).
patprimmer
New member
I have a cousin who races an open wheeler ,but his name is Mark Primmer. He comes from Nabiac
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.
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