bearing on brick veneer a no-no?

[hippo11]

In a situation with a cavity wall (6" stud + 2" air gap + 2" veneer with brick ties) I've heard that bearing anything on a brick veneer, say canopy trusses bearing on a ledger bolted to brick veneer, is a bad idea because the veneer degrades over time and really isn't reliable structural because of this reason...so instead all the canopy trusses should go THROUGH the brick veneer and bear on the backup studs/structure behind the veneer...has anyone heard differently?

 

[csd72]

hippo11,

there has been a post on this exact topic in the last couple of months, I suggest you do a search.

I believe that the responses were mixed.

csd

 

[hippo11]

I did a "Search Posts" by keyword= brick veneer, bearing brick, brick, and didn't find anything!!

Do you know what the subject of that thread was?

Thanks!

 

[Lion06]

hippo-
the search for this site is horrible. I have done searches on threads that I have started and knew very specific words to narrow it down and could only get threads from the mechanical forum (and even then only 1 thread, if any).

 

[UcfSE]

Did you use the Google option to search the site? I put in "brick veneer" and got this:

Brick veneer search results in Google

 

[UcfSE]

Look in the ACI 530 definition for veneer. That should answer your question. Brick veneer is not load bearing by definition.

 

[concretemasonry]

Hippo -

Your back up "wrinkled tin", wood or block is your only choice the apply external loads on.


The ledger bolted to the brick veneer is a bad detail looking for achance to fail. - Eccentric load applied to a 2" veneer?

The direct approach of connecting to back up will also require the appropriate flashing and weeps to maintain the moisture barrier.

 

[lkjh345]

Hippo11:

Agree with others here. Bearing on 2" veneer is just not a good idea.

A common solution I have seen and used for small canopies or additions in similiar situations is to run a beam parrellel to the face of the wall to collect the canopy trusses into two beam lines that poke through the brick venner to the backup wall space behind.

In the stud space, place steel columns to pick up the ends of the beams. The posts bear on the foundation walls (assuming the existing foundations will handle the extra load). In a 6" stud space, its fairly easy to get up to a decent size column with considerable axial capacity.

Be sure there is some way to keep the whole thing from swaying so that you can consider the columns 'pinned-pinned'.

 

[csd72]

hippo11,

Sorry I should have read your post more carefully.

2" is not a veneer is is really just a cladding - 2" masonry should never be taken as load bearing.

csd

 

[JAE]

Here's a link to a similar thread:

thread507-190345

 

[casseopeia]

hippo11,

From the ACI: Veneer, masonry, A masonry wythe that provides the exterior finish of a wall system and transfers out-of-plane load directly to a backing, but is not considered to add load resisting capacity to the wall system.

So the short answer is no. Technically, once you add load to the veneer, it is no longer a veneer system and must be designed as a load bearing wall, subject to all requirements. You will likely have to modify the wall in some way, such as adding steel or light-gauge metal framing to pick up the load of the trusses. Or, you could do something with solid masonry (piers and a bond beam.) It depends on the structure and overall design.

For additional information, go the the BIA website for free downloads of their technical bulletins.

The Masonry Institute of American also has information, but requires a membership. Your local jurisdiction will probably reference the ACI. Mine uses 530-05, Building Code requirements for Masonry Structures. ACI also requires membership.

Is your brick veneer really only 2-inches? The minimum size required is generally 2-5/8”. Two-inch material is normally adhered, not used in cavity wall construction.


"If you are going to walk on thin ice, you might as well dance!"