best paint for steel hulls 1

[OrestesOne]

i am about to blast and repaint my steel hull.
what is the best epoxy combination for salt water environment?
* zinc based (ZINGA)?
* Aluminum based (BULLET-PROOF)?
* thick green primer?
* zinc molybdate alkyd primer?
* red oxide primer?

I am not restrainend by any yard regulations and i play with military surplus material.
Any input Please
Thanks

 

[mshimko]

I recommend a good "work-horse" epoxy, without naming any specific brands.

More importantly than the brand, is the surface preparation, surface cleanliness, absence of chlorides, humidity control, etc.

 

[EdStainless]

There are many systems for this application, but most of hte good ones have been outlawed.
As I recall they are typically a 2 or 3 layer system. The base coat is usually loaded with Zn, then there is a barrier layer and the top coat has a biocyde in it. In the old days Cu was the favorite.

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Rust never sleeps
Neither should your protection

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[mshimko]

Are you talking corrosopn protection or anti-fouling protection?

For corrosion protection you can't beat the workhorse epoxies.

For antifouing protection, it depends where you are. It's true the best AF paint was probably the organo-tins, which the US Navy stopped using in 1986, and are now (I believe) banned from further use worldwide. The newer copper ablatives perform pretty good also, but they are dependent a little on ship's speed to ablate. These are still available, but I expect them to be restricted in the next decade or so. Foul-release coatings don't seem to be durable enpugh for most applications. I also know the US Coast Guard is happy with E-Paint's SN-1 for their small boats and craft.

 

[EdStainless]

I knew that I had seen this. NACE.org has a whole section on marine coatings. This is a promo for the Corrosion2007 meeting in Nashville next month.



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= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Rust never sleeps
Neither should your protection

http://www.trent-tube.com/contact/Tech_Assist.cfm

 

[ssreese1500]

Personally I like a zinc primer covered by a two-part epoxy, especially if the whole hull is going to be blasted to white metal via grit.

Here is the thing to remember: Zinc primers will not perform well if there is moisture or surface rust on the steel.

As Mshimko said, the key is a clean dry surface with a good profile.

If you are water blasting, I would use two coats of two part epoxy, as it is surface tolerant.

Ablative coatings dont work as well as thier copper based ancestors, but they are still better than having just an epoxy on the underwater hull. Above the water, top coat with a good two part urethane. It will give you a little more protection and resists the fading and chalking out like the epoxies do. In other words, it will keep your boat looking NICE!

Key with ablatives and urethanes is to apply while the epoxy is set, but still tacky. this will allow the top coatings to grip the epoxy and have good adhesion. This is usually in the 14 to 24 hour range after epoxy application, dependent on weather, of course.