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Brake proportioning

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MacGyverS2000

Electrical
Dec 22, 2003
8,504
The wife's car (Nissan Cube) has had issues from practically day one... but this particular thread is about brakes.

At some point in the past, the steering wheel took on a real shudder during braking... fine, warped rotors. But why did they warp? While doing some maintenance work (read, replacing the failed CVT that nearly killed us... twice), they dealer was kind enough to notice the shimmy and turned the rotors. A month later it was back. We decided to live with it.

Took it to a local shop (for a SECOND broken flange on the tailpipe, which left the muffler hanging) and they noticed the shimmy, too (as if you could miss it!). The front disc pads were down to the last millimeter or two, but the rear drum pads were practically untouched. Mechanic said it appears as if the brakes are running about 90/10 rather than a more pad friendly 70/30 split on braking power... which would explain why the front rotors overheat and warp so easily. So, new rotors/pad are on order, and I threw in some new drums/pads for good measure because the price was so good (about $300 for everything).

My question is, how can I change (fix/repair?) the proportioning on this car (and on an acedemic note, why isn't it set properly from the factory)? On the NSX, it was a set of handles in the boot, but I'm learning with most cars it's generally a setup that requires replacement of the master cylinder if you want to change it out (assuming you can get a master cylinder with a different proportion... such as the Altima).

Could this simply be an issue with the rear drums not being adjusted properly? Don't most modern drums have auto-adjusting pads that ratchet with every pedal press, ensuring after a few initial presses (after initial assembly/replacement) that every succeeding press will apply proper pressure for the life of the pad?

Dan - Owner
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My bad... did a little more research on definition of floating versus fixed (don't remember where I got the impression it was a floating type). These are fixed.

Dan - Owner
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Calipers can be "fixed" usully with opposing pistons.

Some calipers float, and can get away with piston(s) in just one side.
 
If your calipers have pins make sure they are lubricated and don't bind.
 
Do modern cars with drum brakes still use residual pressure valves? Looking at the rear brakes again, if the M/C has integral RPV's it's possible it is leaking by. Then it would take much more pedal travel to engage the shoes.
 
Not mentioned anywhere so far - what sort of bedding-in procedure for the original and new pads has been employed? "Warped rotors" frequently catches the blame for what was really uneven pad material transfer.

Probably a lot less common is the possibility that the thicknesses of the rotor friction surfaces is not constant around the entire circumference, with implications of uneven expansion. I have a couple sets of name-brand front rotors for a Nissan Maxima where this thickness variation is visible to the naked eye that caused severe brake pedal shuddering during and after attempting to bed the pads.


Norm
 
We're now a month+ in on the new pads/rotors and nary a wiggle has shown up. I'm wondering if something odd happened at the factory to cause the issue. As long as it stays away, I'm happy.

Dan - Owner
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