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Cold Formed Steel Design 1

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dcredskins

Structural
Feb 4, 2008
62
I would like to know how different engineers design:
1. Stud splice (only for lateral/wind load)
2. Base connection design (thicker track or stiffclip if necessary) for cantilever (parapet) studs including the fasteners design (we specify STEEL NETWORK STIFFCLIPS under these circustances, however, I am looking for an alternate to STIFFCLIP connection)

Attached, please find the sketches.

Appreciate your help.
 
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1. I wouldn't splice a stud. You can get them at least 30' long, so why splice?

2. For a lightly loaded cantilever, I use a thick track with power driven fasteners. For a more heavily loaded cantilever, I use a StiffClip, or a conventional steel angle with an expansion anchor.

DaveAtkins
 
DaveAtkins,

I agree with you on item 1. However, this is an example. I just want to see how you do it (calculations please, if possible).
Also, in item 2, I would like to see how you show design calculations with tracks and PDFs condition.
 
I agree no splices without a significant overlap.
In a continious cantilever I put a continuous steel plate nested in the track and bolted to the structure.
 
I see unsupported parapets like that a lot and think it's a very poor detail. A stiffclip CL will work for some cases with short parapets or low wind loads. But generally your parapet wind load will be much higher than your wall wind load if it is calculated correctly (in the 40psf range). <end rant>

Anyway, you could place a "red" steel vertical angle or channel every 4-6 ft with a moment connection to whatever your base material is. Then you can just infill your studs normally. The top track spans between vertical posts.
 
That is why I use a continuous red iron plate the same width as the track. Adding a steel channel at 4-6 ft will do the same but will concentrate a larger tension load in your anchor bolt which can be difficult to make work.
 
1) I agree with all others splices are not recommended. If you have a situation where a splice is needed, you will need to develop the flanges and web not unlike a structural steel member. It will likely require many screws if you choose to use screws. This will obviously be labor intensive. Another option would be to install continuous (full height studs) between or adjacent to the studs in question.

2) You will need to create a fixed base. What we have done in the past is install "kicker" braces every so often (3-4 feet on center). Then use a top track capable of spanning between the braces. This will eliminate the need for fixity at the base.
 
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