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Cooling Tank Sizing 5

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Al_eng

Mechanical
Jul 22, 2020
6
Hello I'm looking for advice on if I'm approaching this problem in the correct way whilst trying to keep it simple.

I'm designing a rectangular stainless steel cooling tank which will be located outside with no insulation.

I have 170kg/hr of water at 90°C entering a tank under gravity flow, I need the water leaving the tank to be less than 60°C (also under gravity flow).

I've made a guess on the dimensions of the tank to give a starting point to the calculations. Area of water in contact with the tank walls of 0.675m^2 and a wall thickness of 6mm
Outside mean average summer temperature 14°C

I've calculated the heat loss from the tanks walls:-

q = 15 W/mK x 0.675m^2 x [ (60°C - 14°C) / 0.006m ] = 77.6 kW

I've calculated the heat gain from the hot water entering:-

Q = 170kg/hr x 4190 J/Kg °C x (90°C - 60°C) = 5.9 kW

As the heat loss from the tank is more than the heat gain am I right in saying the temperature of water leaving the tank will be less than 60°C?

I know there's a lot of factors I haven't taken into consideration to try to keep it simple such as lower night temperatures, wind, heat from the sun (tank positioned in a shaded location)
I was also planning designing the tank with baffle plates to promote free mixing to help with the assumption that the contents of the tank will reach a temperature equilibrium.

Thanks in advance
 
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Innovation, sustainability... Hmmm definitely this world requires one more classic design of water air cooler to become more sustainable and innovative.
This is not a sarcasm. I am just trying to figure out what you will do with this new innovative aircooler and don't find the answers.
 
I am purely trying to find out if a simple rectangular tank when only cooled by the external surrounding air can cool water from 90 to less than 60 degrees without other intervention. We have the manufacturing capability to make the tank easily and cheaply 'in house', this solution would also require no manual intervention and minimal maintenance. As the designer, I'm trying to prove by calculations that this is either possible within size constraints or not. The alternative is continuing with the current practice to cool the 90C water with fresh cold water which is incredibly wasteful in both environmental and cost terms
 
Hi,
What about using a small cooling tower if you accept evaporation losses?
My 2 cents
Pierre
 
"I am purely trying to find out if a simple rectangular tank when only cooled by the external surrounding air can cool water from 90 to less than 60 degrees without other intervention"

Errr, no is the answer.

Now add fins or make three or four long thin tanks like domestic radiators and build it off the ground and it might just work.

Or buy some radiators and plumb them together?

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.
 
Allysuth said:
Outside mean average summer temperature 14°C
Why season mean average? Why not the hottest day? Does this sewer tolerate regular continious overheating far above 60°C?
 
I am purely trying to find out if a simple rectangular tank when only cooled by the external surrounding air can cool water from 90 to less than 60 degrees without other intervention.

The answer is still no, with the geometry you choose; I already calculated that you need somewhere between 20 to 30 times the surface area to get close, and that is NOT A BIGGER BOX, it's have TRUCKLOADS of cooling area.

There have already been several suggestions to use something like a auto radiator, but you would still need to have a forced convection condition. Natural convection is more like 5 W/m^2-K, so more like 40 to 50 times the surface area would be required.

You could possibly use the water flow to drive an impeller and connect that to a fan for the radiator. A typical car radiator is only about 2-3 inches deep and your shortest dimension is 12 inches, so it's possible to get a fan between two layers of car radiator

TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert! faq731-376 forum1529 Entire Forum list
 
Just hang around your local recycling centre and take a bunch of radiators someone is throwing out.... might need to paint them but cheaper and easier than building your own tank.

Water is a remarkable substance and retains heat / hard to heat compared to just about any normal fluid.

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.
 
Just bear in mind that a conventional car radiator is designed for a large forced convection heat transfer coefficient; they generally do not meet their spec performance without fan cooling when the car is stationary. You either have to provide forced convection or upsize the radiator. I don't have an exact upsizing, but assume that you need a radiator for a car that has 200 hp to account for the coolant fraction and lack of forced air.

You may find that your requirements are unachievable; not unlike wanting a car that can simultaneously go 100 mph and get 100 mpg.

TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert! faq731-376 forum1529 Entire Forum list
 
Or plug in a 12V powered fan.

Come on guys, this is getting silly. We're talking 5 KW of heat rejection here for 20 mins residence time so maybe 30 kW for a smaller system. Not rocket science here.

Most of us could get a system working to get to 40C for< $1000 if we didn't need to get approval from anyone.

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.
 
See your Uni process heat transfer text for getting length of finned tubing for this natural convection service, including value for fin thermal eff. Take care with pressure drop - you 've only got the min normal liquid level in the upstream condensate tank to work with.
 
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