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Deck Ledger at Brick Veneer

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GTE......I Was confused by Ron's load path too, but I think he's right.

If I'm understanding correctly.....

The connection wants to 'fold up' on itself. The the strut prevents this from happening. (I wonder why they didn't angle it upwards or shift it up an inch or two?)

Remove the brick because it is not part of the connection. There is a force triangle created by the tension screw and the compression strut.

Capture_vpwnaw.jpg
 
House,
The long screw is in tension, so a free-body at Homer Simpson would have an up arrow and an inward arrow for the long screw. I think?

The joists will aid in preventing rotation from actually occurring, but do not eliminate the attempt to rotate. The attempt to rotate is present all the time.
 
Another piece on this thread. Anyone deciding to use this connection to install a porch roof rather than a floor need to at least consider installing one set upside down for uplift and a different set for Roof Live assuming they have a 2nd floor system to attach to in the first place.

I have a floor detail for putting a pier between 2 existing floor joists. My detail clearly shows 2 solid blocks that span between 2 floor joists. The solid blocks are connected to the joists with a double joist hanger installed upside down. I also have an arrow pointing at it and instructing that it be installed upside down. So far, most contractor's have called to let me know I screwed up and need to install it the normal way. It goes back to that load path thing.
 
I'm not sure why this showed up as a new post today when I looked, the last post is from March, but holy freakin' crap, I skimmed through the 47 zillion posts and I shake my head at you guys. Give your heads a shake. I deal with building departments every day who object to decks supported on brick (according to the code), and builders who do it and have done it for a hundred years without even a callback, never mind an actual problem, and if I can't solve their troubles in 5 minutes, I'll find another line of work.
Fact 1: the brick has far greater capacity in vertical bearing than the whole house behind it, never mind just the wood framing immediately behind it. Fact 2: a 1 storey, or whatever, masonry wall 4" thick (the brick veneer) has no lateral stability and is depending on some sort of backup for that.
20X thickness is a typical limit for bearing masonry, or 80", not 8' or 9' for the 4" thick veneer wall height. So, how tough is this to really deal with? Obviously the brick can carry the load, and obviously the brick is laid and tied to the frame wall. Look at the ties and the deflection from wind on the wood frame wall. It can't exceed L/360 or the drywall cracks; the brick might live with that, but L/480 is better. So, the prescriptive code limitations have probably dealt with deflections, you have to deal with the deck loads. Put sleeves through the brick that will allow the ledger to be bolted/lagged to the trimmer but will not allow the bolts/lags/screws/whatever you used to pull the brick veneer in and crack it/induce an out-of-plumb condition, then if you can't figure out what you need to support the ledger as far as fasteners go, why are you employed in this profession?
 
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