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Designing static Nut remover 4

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Threadman

Mining
Mar 2, 2020
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So im wanting to hear some opinions..
I work in oil and gas and when we remove flange studs typically one nut will undo and the other will stay siezed.. So we end up having a stud with a seized nut on it.. very time consuming with alot of manual handling to get the other nut off..
So what i want to build is a clamp that will hold the stud and a some high torque gearbox coupled to electric motor to have a 3/4 square drv output..
I wanting to know what gearbox would be capable of producing very high torques? Some of these nuts i can not remove with a large breaker bar..
Would love to hear what some people think the way to go wpuld be.
 
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Hi
Unless you know the torque required to undo the seized nut (and its obvious that no one knows the torque) you can't size the gearbox or motor.

“Do not worry about your problems with mathematics, I assure you mine are far greater.” Albert Einstein
 
Studs and nuts are not that expensive.

Probable cheaper to replace all as a standard operation then spend the time and effort trying to to remove sized or corroded nuts from used studs and risking the problems associated with reusing damaged studs.
 
I'm not clear, are you able to remove the stud from the flange and you're just trying to reuse a stud that has a nut seized to it? Is there a reason you don't want to use an off the shelf torque multiplier?

Also, this thread may be of interest: thread404-414465
 
Are you doing the usual star pattern in loosening the nuts? If the nuts are not uniformly loosened, then all the compression force placed on the flange by all the nuts is transferred to the last nut.

Have you tried an impact wrench? Vibration and impact could potentially break loose corroded joints easier than a static torque

TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert! faq731-376 forum1529 Entire Forum list
 
Thanks for the responses, to answer a few questuions back..
The studs can be quite large around 1-1/2 and 12" long with quantities upto hundreds.. gets quite expansive also availabitliy is an issue..
Conventional torque heads only run slowly and in around 1/4 turns requiring more time to undo.. time is important when dealing with the quanties.
Im sure a good 3/4 drive torque could crack the nuts id just rather a motor and gbox configuration due to easy of use and low noise.
 
We use a stud extractor to remove studs that are stuck into a compressor or turbine casing. It grips the stud by the threads and does not damage it so it can be reused. The same tool should work to hold your stud so that the nut can be removed with an impact gun.

Johnny Pellin
 
I have also been thinking of a few good ideas to hold the stud.. Thanks for the tip ill look into the stud extractor also.
You wouldnt happen to know the brand?
 
It's been a while since I was at the sharp end on things like this but I do recall fitters used to double nut the far end to give them a grip to try and release the stuck nut after liberal dosing with penetrating oil.

a bit of heat never goes amiss either before or after.

but fundamentally it shows up poor practice on non greasing of the studs during fit up.

The difficulty with the clamp idea is how do you protect the stud threads while applying enough grip to remove the stuck nut. I've never seen anything reliable and hence the nut cracker is probably your best bet if you want something quick and easy.

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.
 
When all suggestions fail, revert back to the tried and true boiler-maker frozen nut remover, oxygen-acetelyne gas torch - works everytime 😉


It is a capital mistake to theorise before one has data. Insensibly one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts. (Sherlock Holmes - A Scandal in Bohemia.)
 
We have flange studs on some of our test stands for our products, which during production runs get made up and torn down 2 or 3 times a day. Some of the studs were replaced with socket-head set screws (of appropriate strength and length), which gives us a wrenching point for the first/last nut. On some larger/longer studs we ordered them about 1" longer than required and machined a wrench flat on one end, same purpose. Dunno if that works for you, but hey.
 
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