Flush Beam Help

[XR250]

This W12 is part of a moment frame. The total shear demand is 3,000 lb/24 ft = 125 plf so pretty minimal.
The right slope is 1:12. Do y'all think just fastening the right roof deck to the nailer and using a valley plate to connect it to the left roof deck would be ok? Should I worry about the small gap between the sheathing and nailer?

 

[phamENG]

Generally seems okay to me. I'm not too sure about the valley plate to steeper slope, though. I think I'd rather see the valley plate slip under the high sheathing with some sort of wood to steel screws going down through the sheathing. That probably doesn't work too well, though, unless it's a light gauge valley plate, in which case the wood to steel screws wouldn't really work...

 

[KootK]

I like it as is and wouldn't sweat the gap. Realistically, I think this as about at good as something like this is likely to get from a diaphragm perspective without getting silly.

[sub]That's a horrible idea. What time?[/sub]

 

[hokie66]

Just curious. How is that supposed to drain?

 

[jerseyshore]

I agree with Koot, don't go too crazy, this little spot isn't going to be an issue.

 

[XR250]

Just curious. How is that supposed to drain?

Good point. There will be a cricket that I forgot to show (or even considered structurally) - which will tie the two sides together.

Thanks for everyone's support!

 

[XR250]

Same house - another flush beam (LVL (4) 1 3/4X14)
Thoughts on this detail for the overhang?
Because Architect.....

 

[phamENG]

Hard pass on that, thanks. Might work okay for a bit, but will almost certainly sag. That's just too long of an overhang to do that.

Best alternative would probably be to work with a floor truss manufacturer to give you cantilever joist pockets and then pad out the shape as needed. Barring that, I might go for holes in the beam that you can pass steel channels through at a larger spacing and redo the framing beyond.

 

[XR250]

What if i uses DTT2Z at the top in addition to the plywood?
Actually, now that i think about it, The Arch added beam supports at 7 ft. O.C. so I can use a smaller beam
and run 2x8's out for the overhang.

Thanks pham!

 

[phamENG]

No problem. Glad you can shorten the beam and get bypass joists over the top. That's certainly the easiest and least expensive approach!

 

[DoubleStud]

I have this instance a lot on your second detail. I would put cantilever beam on each end to pick up the look out. Then you have another structural beam at the end of the overhang going in and out of the paper.

 

[jdgengineer]

I do what DoubleStud mentioned. That's the way to go.

 

[phamENG]

I agree with double stud's method for cantilevered balconies with odd and potentially discontinuous flashing arrangements. But at a roof overhang (which this looks like), I like to cantilever the rafters/joists since you have a continuous waterproof surface overhead.

 

[XR250]

I feel like in this case, this is a better solution than the cant. beams. If I had needed a full-height beam, then, yeah, that would be more reasonable.

 

[driftLimiter]

On your first detail did you consider blocking on the steep side of the WF beam? could get shear transfer from blocking down into the web nailer. I can also imagine a fairly light gauge continuous plate accomplish the shear transfer for you as suggested, just a bit less conventional.

 

[XR250]

On your first detail did you consider blocking on the steep side of the WF beam? could get shear transfer from blocking down into the web nailer

Not a bad idea.

 

[GC_Hopi]

I am with driftLimiter. Put in a blocking and nailer to get a load path for the shear to go from the sheathing to the W12 or bent plates on the underside of the sheathing like a ledger angle to a load path.