Has anyone ever used electric water pump?

[lotuscarlton]

I'm in the midst of a project car buildup (a Lotus Carlton with twin HKS 3037 turbo). And I'm seriously considering an electric water pump due to:
1. Lack of space in front of the engine due to larger water exchanger
2. It would simplify my coolant path and enable me to use water manifolds inlet and outlet which in turn allows me more even heat distribution in the engine.

Now, my question is.
Has anybody ever used an electric water pump? (eq. Meziere, Davies Craig, EWP, or anything else)
Has anyone ever measured their flowrate against
restriction? (all of them measured at 0 restriction in their specs. Which is nearly meaningless.)
How reliable are they?
How well do they perform?

Thanks in advance for any information shared.

 

[samplesecond]

I have used the Davies Craig waterpumps with much success and would highly recommend their product.

I was also curious about flow vs pressure data, but have used the 110 l/min pump on the engine coolant systems supporting +650hp with no problems. Its a very handy unit esp. with the controller.

 

[ivymike]

Why not buy one and test flow vs restriction before you install it? Should be as simple enough to do using a gate valve, a pressure gage, a water supply, a power supply, and a big bucket...

 

[finman]

I've used EMP on a couple of projects with no complaints even after some severe test work.

Nice flexible unit does what is says on the can.

 

[70AARCUDA]

...if you've got "spare" microcomputer processor power, you might also be able to "control" flowrate, and thus temperature, with a thermocouple (or two) by programming the computer to "modulate" waterpump speed.

 

[reidh]

If you do decide to test your own pump, just make sure that you have a straight section before and after the restriction to ensure uniform flow for your pressure reading.

20 diameters of straight section rings a bell, I can check previous test reports at work tomorrow.

-Reidh

 

[lotuscarlton]

Actually I'm more interested in your experiences in using electric water pumps in high performance applications. It's very probable that all of them would have enough flow capacity to cool an engine at idle. But what about at WOT? Has anyone ever experienced overheating problems?

Aside from that, I'm still thinking of how to regulate flowrate to control block heat dissipation. To regulate the pump speed itself is simple, but don't we have block coolant pressure to consider? Once the outlet orifice size is fixed, if you lower the pump speed then block pressure would drop automatically wouldn't it? Wouldn't that cause a less than effective cooling? So to make block pressure constant and still be able t regulate flow rate we'd have to be able to adjust outlet orifice size?

 

[carfreak01]

Why not trying to leave the orifice at the maximum diameter for WOT and controll the flowrate with an electic activated valve for idle temperatures and pressures.

 

[carfreak01]

You know what, maybe that electric valve can be linked to the TPS sensor to regulate the flowrate and you can put a return line with another electric valve also linked to the TPS sensor that will function as a relief valve.
Hahaha, I got carried away, but its an idea.
Good luck.

 

[jcd06]

This one seems the only that talks about pressure in the specs

http://www.thinkauto.com/waterpumps.htm

Regards,

Jean

 

[FastDreamer]

The first caution that comes to mind is DC motor life. They seem to range, these days, from 2000 to 9000 hours; depending on how deep your pocket is. How much horsepower are you making? How much air are you getting to the radiator. I'd guess at a minimum you'd need at least 2500 cfm through a good radiator and a min. of 35 gpm water flow for a 5 litre making 300-375hp. Assuming you're not cooling an automatic trans. Using a wetting agent would be a good thought as well.

~Happy Motoring!!!

 

[reidh]

FastDreamer,

Just curious, what radiator efficiency you are estimating for 2500 CFM and 35 gpm for a 300-375 HP engine?

-Reidh

 

[FastDreamer]

Reidh,
In my experience, the 2500 cfm would be a minimum for cooling with little or no vehicle movement at or near idle. Also from experience in a cast iron sbc 355 ci making about 425hp. A 2500 cfm fan has done well with a OEM 4 core radiator using Purple Ice and a 50/50 mix of antifreeze.
I didn't do the math to determine efficiency and admittedly, I didn't really consider higher oil temp from "twin HKS 3037 turbo." Oil cooling efficiency would surely be a factor in considering proper coolant flow, as would a few other factors that come to mind thinking about how to repsond to your question.... fuel, cylinder wall thickness, water jacket design, etc. ....is my face red ??? (I'll be in the shallow end quietly watching) ~FD

 

[reidh]

Fastdreamer,

Didn't mean to paint you in a corner, I was just curious.

-Reidh

 

[FastDreamer]

Reidh,
Actually, I appreciated your question. It made me think and that, is a nice thing. Thanks! ~FD