How to cut Stainless Steel 1mm thick Vinyl protection???

[filocco]

Hello, I have a LC1212-AlphaII - 1500wats. I have to cut stainless steel 1 mm thick vinyl protection. I have many problems of formation of high pressure balloon with shop air.

You must have the vinyl because after cutting continues bending.

Another problem is that while cutting passes from hole to hole is burning vinyl unwanted areas, that is not shut off the laser, and so the entire piece stain in the head travel the shortest distance between the internal bores of the workpiece .

How to make the laser turns off while moving quickly to cut another hole???

I will appreciate any help possible!

 

[JayMaechtlen]

Depending on what country you're in, you should discuss with Amada's application people and service techs.

That machine doesn't close a physical shutter, it just turns the power (almost) off. I recall there were some changes to make the laser 'simmer' at a lower power level to avoid tracking on such materials. I don't recall what the changes need to be.
As far as the vinyl - there are different grades of vinyl and adhesive. Some companies sell 'laser grade' vinyl.
Also, some people will pre-burn the vinyl, to leave a clear track when cutting. I think the pre-burn also keeps the burned edge adhered to the sheet better.
Regards
Jay



Jay Maechtlen

http://www.laserpubs.com/techcomm

 

[rambynas]

I was using oxygen assist and putting protection down on the table.

 

[filocco]

Someone with more suggestions????

 

[Foostrap]

You can try to use the smallest nozzle you have, and lower gas pressure as much as possible (with still acceptable cut results). If it's not laser quality plastic (meaning not sticky enough), you will have to run the program in 2 passes, one to pre-burn (melt) the plastic, then cut the steel.
For the plastic melting when going from hole to hole, this is caused by the base discharge. Newer Fanuc resonators don't have a base discharge anymore. On older ones, a good technician should be able to adjust the base discharge to a minimum to minimize the problem you have.
Another option (but slower) is to retract the head high enough for each rapid travel (bring the head up before it travels accros); that way the beam will be defocused enough and shouldn't melt the plastic.