I need a good polystyrene glue!

[tomot]

I made a sculpture out of the 2" thick Dow (blue) polystyrene.
(the polystyrene sculpture was then sprayed with spraytex)

I have only 3 mounting points from which to hang the sculpture
from a wall. However just like hanging a painting, the top mounting
point is really taking all of the weight. whereas the other 2 would only
be there to secure lateral movement.

I used Lepage PL 300 (a foamboard adhesive)to glue the 2" polystyrene to itself in areas
where the sculpture required more thickness.

The sculpture weights just under 5 lbs.

I then cut a 1" cube out of the polystyrene and glued a 1" cube wood
block into the opening. My thinking was if I can create more
surface area for the glue to hold I can then use the wood as an attachment
point.

I then drilled an anchoring pin into to wood block, so I could use it to
make an attachment to the wall.

After the PL 300 glue had cured I attached the sculpture to the wall.

However after several hours I found that my 1" cube wood block was
starting to separate from the polystyrene.

Is there any glue on the market that would do a better job?

(I have tried several epoxies and other glues, unfortuately most will
eat the polystyrene).

 

[Plastserv]

MEK

 

[bvanhiel]

MEK won't bond the sculpture to a wood block, but it will certainly bond to a styrene block...

-b

 

[tomot]

I originally tried to secure a rivetting pin directly into the
polystyrene, with even less success then the wood block was
providing. Hence the question remains what hanging device
can be glued onto or into the polystyrene that will not pull
out, that can be used to attach the sculpture to the wall?

(thinking out loud) if a fabricate a pin with attached 3/4"washer, place it into the 1" cubic opening and fill the entire opening with that glue I'm looking for

 

[patprimmer]

If you can put undercuts into the PS foam and the plug, an epoxy or polyurethane should wotk fine.

In fact you should not need the wood, lay the part face down and just fill the hole with epoxy and wait for it to cure before moving the part.

Regards

eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.

 

[tomot]

Thank you all for your replies!

patprimmer, your answer worked best, here is some background for others doing a search looking for a similar solution.

I retained the wood block idea since it lends itself to
numerous different attachment methods. however I also used
a predrilled hole in the wood block and secured a screw into
the block and into the PS foam. I also created some more
voids in the foam with the use of a screwdriver, inorder to
provide more than just a smooth face that could cause the block to shear from the PS foam. In this way the epoxy when
totally cured acts almost like 1/3 of a dovetail joint.

I use a 3m product Scotch-weld structural adhesive (epoxy)
which I have used to connect brass ebows to tubular brass
in the design of brass furniture.