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Ignition coil noise coming over ground.

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JonathanK

Mechanical
Jun 19, 2007
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Hi all,

Recently my car developed an issue. Recent as in a couple or few months but I finally have the time to sit down and look at it. I had issues with my hall effect crank position sensor sync'ing up according to the DTA ECU I run. It would take longer than normal to crank over. I hooked a scope up to the sensor and was receiving no output - replaced it with an identical sensor (Cherry GS100502).

However, it is still taking a long to sync up. I looked at the ECU and it will display "engine not turning" then I hold the starter on and it shows "engine turning, sync'ing, sync'd" then it will (with me still holding the starter) show 0 RPM/not turning for about 200 - 250ms, and then come back and start. The weird part is, when I scope the output of the sensor (ECU has an internal pull-up resistor 5o 5v of 1K ohm) I see the square wave pulses for the teeth, then the signal goes high (due to pull-up) like the ground drop out and it can't pull down! Then it comes back.

So, then I scoped this ground. The ECU has two pins (Pin 21 and 33) dedicated to "sensor grounds". I had the hall sensor grounding here but realized its likely not ideal given I provide the hall with 12v from car but ground to the sensor ground, which has sensors with 5v conditioned from the ECU. So, its possible the ground plane there is not right for the 12vdc coming from the vehicle. When I move the ground for the hall sensor from this sensor ground to the chassis directly in the engine bay - no noise on the hall signal what so ever. However, if I put the scope probe on the hall sensor output and chassis ground I get a clean square wave signal with no drops/noise/false triggers, car idles with 0 cam/crank errors for 16 minutes of running - but, if I hook the CH2 probe up to the sensor ground wire Pin 21/33 and chassis ground I see the ignition coil noise again.

So, to test whether it was radiated noise or through the ground/system I unplugged Pin21/33 and ran a wire out of the ECU completely separate of the wire bundle and into the engine bay hooking up to nothing - no noise on wire showing. I then made this new wire tie to the sensors as the sensor ground path and boom - noise is back. I then put the old wire back in the connector (Pin 21/33) and with it cut from the sensors in the engine bay, I scoped it - no noise. So it seems to not be picking it up in the wire bundle through the firewall but rather from the sensors themselves.

One thing worth noting is that even when the sensor ground wires were unhooked from the sensor ground pin of the ECU, they still report values - aka, they are getting a ground source from someplace else. This is likely what is feeding back into the ECU. A few of these sensors (Map sensor, oil pressure, fuel pressure) have a 5v, sensor ground, and output wire - the rest are 2-pin sensors that have a signal and sensor ground wire... but must be grounding through the body? But, if that's the case, that'd mean they are grounding to the 5vdc/sensor ground circuit AND the chassis ground - not ideal?

So - I really want to get this noise off this ground because it has the potential to mess with sensor readings and its keeping me from providing my hall sensors with 5vdc because its regulated and how the diagrams show it should be (sensor can run w/ 4.5 - 24vdc supply, so 12vdc works, but...) but the sensor ground path induces noise onto the hall sensor signals that causes sync issues. This whole issue didn't seem to present itself until recently (car has run for 1.5 - 2 years without having these issues).

Does this sound like a bad system ground (ECU) or bad engine ground? I am not very experienced with this sort of noise and thought its supposed to be dumped into the chassis ground... so I would think the 12vdc/chassis ground hall sensor setup would show the noise vs the sensor ground which is separate from the main ground connections.

Here is an image of the wiring diagram you can see the comment I added about 12vdc supply to hall sensors.


Thanks all for any advice!
 
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I'm with Pat... likely lots of oxidation under those bolts. If you're feeling really adventurous, use a star washer and some anti-oxidant grease.

Dan - Owner
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And not just the ground straps, also check/clean/star-washer any place that wires connect to a grounded part. I would be very suspect of the grounds for the ECU.
 
Also look for a high voltage leak. Lift the bonnet (hood) in a very dark area with the engine running and look for glow worms around the disst, coil and HT wires. Chock the wheels well, apply the brakes and load the engine to exaggerate any HT leaks.

Regards
Pat
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Thanks all!

Pat that is a good idea, only problem is the coils sit on the spark plugs directly (coil on plug setup). I am using a resistor spark plug and I measured the coil output tubes for resistance and they are in spec (1.7 - 1.8 k-ohm). It almost seems like its radiated noise. These coil packs are inductive - the ECU pulls the primary low for a time (dwell) and lets go to collapse and spark. If my noise was very very high amplitude that'd indicate HT noise right? This noise comes through my scope at about 3v - 5v amplitude assuming of course the scope is catching it all. The car runs great with the hall sensor ground to chassis, I am just not happy knowing that theres noise on that ECU ground wire. Maybe I will try and lift the hood in the dark like you said and see.

One thing worth noting - I unplugged every sensor on the car, since the noise seems to be on this sensor ground wire (or at least when I ground my hall sensor there that's when I see the issues). With all sensors unplugged, I still get the noise. Would indicate it might be radiating? The ECU coil drivers pull the coils down with high current transistors. Just thinking out loud. Also - would it be good/bad to run a 10 - 12G wire from the battery negative directly to my ECU ground point? The battery in these cars is under the rear seat grounding to the chassis only.

Thanks for your time everyone!
 
If it's coil on plug I doubt you will see anything. Just inspect for carbon tracks and ensure the plug porcelain is clean and dry and the coil is firmly attached with good contact.

If you have a scope is the noise at engine speed or the number of cylinders times half engine speed.

Regards
Pat
See FAQ731-376 for tips on use of eng-tips by professional engineers &
for site rules
 
Pat - new plugs, so everything should be good there.

I can't really tell if its engine speed per say. I am simply cranking over with the scope and I have the trigger set for anything over like 1v on the "noise wire". When I crank the car I have it set to run the coils in wasted spark so I see 2x pulses on each coil. And further, if I disconnect all the coils and re-introduce one coil, it SEEMS like the amplitude of the noise is slightly lower. The frequency is definitely lower.

As for speed/half speed I feel like you're aiming at the crank vs cam sensor? FWIW I am scoping the crank sensor with the cam sensor unplugged all together for the time being.
 
So - I managed to do more testing and figured some more things out.

Turns out, the noise isn't coming across the sensor ground wire for the ECU. It actually has nothing to do with the hall sensor or shielding afterall. I figured this out by realizing that my ECU has a test mode where you can pulse outputs without any inputs. So I can fire the coil packs and injectors without any sensors hooked up to the car. So I removed the connector at every sensor on the wiring harness. The only thing plugged in was the coil packs. No crank RPM or cam RPM sensors, no throttle, no temperature, etc.

When I pulse the coils without the engine running the noise is present. However - "where" the noise is present is very interesting. If I hook my scope to the chassis as ground reference and then to say the signal wire for the manifold pressure sensor I will read noise. That means without the sensor connected at all there is voltage spikes coming out of the ECU, not into the ECU. So - no wonder my hall sensor failed and no wonder I could not eliminate the noise with shielding and rewiring. I tested a number of connectors and basically any sensor input wire has noise coming out of it w/o the sensor even plugged in. And, in fact, the ECU software shows status of your sensors as "failed" when they are unplugged... yet with the coils pulsing and the engine off my map sensor would flicker between failed and a reading without the sensor even attached.

So... that SEEMS like its an issue with the ECU. I have purchased a replacement ECU but haven't tested yet. I am going to bench test the old ECU to confirm the issue happens off the car and that will at least give me a good idea as to whether its something on the car or something in the ECU for sure.
 
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