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IRS WHEEL TRAMP, CONTINUED 2

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Ron364

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Nov 18, 2010
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As an update to then original thread on this IRSweheel tramp [Americans incorrectly call IRS tramp as hop}. Live axles do indeed hop vertically, but irs tramp does not actually lift the driven wheels, hence tramp is more accurate.
Update on my experiments and I really hope Greg and Pat and other previous contributors read this and offer comment.
Greg, as a followup to engine torque and the mounts being a source, well after doing extensive gopro filming of all of the likely energy storage bits; engine, gearbox, diff and wheel joints, i found that as expected they all tense up and release energy when wheelspin occurs. No wheelspin = no opportunity to release energy = no tramp. At tramp, the engine rocks the most on its liquid mounts, likewise the gearbox is bolted to the engine and of course rocks to the samne frequency, about 8 Hz. Greg, i fitted a shocker to the engine, mounting it horizontally using one of the few shockers that can work horizontally. I used 2000 QUAD Mustang shockers, as other types get an airlock in their tube that limits use. Result was that the resonance in the engine bay was reduced by about 75%, and reduction at the wheel, where it matters, was also greatly reduced.
The most alarming movement was seen in the diff; mounted with two rubber mounts at the front and a single offset mount at the rear. Gopro movie shows massive vertical resonance with minimal sidways movement. Hence a vertical rubber “snubber” would be a good helper here. A BMW fix in usa seems to be a fabricated rod end as a fourth mount with a solid bush in the original 3 diff mounts, hence solid diff bush with std rubber mounts everywhere else in the rear.
Gopro at the wheels showed the same 8Hz resonance, no vertical lift, only slip/grip cycles with some movement as the rubber mounts compressed causing significant toe change.

My mods, all done separately. Engine damper; excellent mod and the factory should have done it.
Polyurethane diff bush in each of the 3 mounts; NHV increased slightly with poly stiffness 90. Tramp surprisingly little changed. BMW “Guy” confirmed that he also failed with poly but succeded with solid joints. My experiments showed that these claims are dangerous because my experience is that only testing on a wet road is by far the best way to test. When questioned, suppliers of various poly bushes or arms or mounts showed that wet road testing had not been done. This certainly applies to claims from usa suppliers.

The use of big/small diameter axles gave unclear results. I used the Camaro use of differing axles as a guide and built my own axles to a similar torsion ratio. Improvement was minimal and resulted in me following up with GM designers. They also found it didn’t fix the tramp problem and ultimately did what bmw and mercedes did, and that is to use traction control to reduce or even stop all wheelspin. The trick here is that TC is not cancelled when pushed and needs either a 10 second hold down time, or simply cannot be turned off completely. How disappointing that these mega companies cannot engineer a solution and use basically the abs sensors to stop wheelspin rather than fix the cause, I call it waving them white flag!

I have systemically changed rubber bushes for poly or rod ends. The Camaro uses nice rod ends in their toe links, and added another spherical joint to the wheel hub. I can only conclude that GM has failed to find a complete solution and the IT solution used by others really only hides the problem. Electric throttles are part of this stop the wheelspin “cure”. Despite the throttle being 100%, the engine cuts to idle positioning!

Conclusion: i think the “ fellow using a “horizontal damper at the rear wheels is offering the best and certainly simmplest solution, and at minimal cost too. He also found that he needed an engine damper for full 100% wet weather solution. However, the layout of the ve cOMMODORE,/G8 is so far, too difficult to mount a similar damper. It needs innovative brackets to fit whereas hopnot solution is for a Chrysler 300 type car, similar rear IRS but different enough to prohibit it on the Commodore/Pontiac G8

So there it is: use an engine damper, fabricate a diff snubber, mount dampers horizontally at each driven rear wheel if possible! Using poly bushes is dangerous as they can only be used when the geometry allows the particular arm to rotate precisely {rotate over each connecting bolt}. This is not the case when you have semi trailing arm setups, like Camaro, C ommodore and Bmw or similar designs. I found poly suppliers simply do not understand how polyurethane works compared to vulcanised original rubber bushes. The rebound frequency of poly is considerably higher than rubber. Poly also does not like being forced to squish at an angle to the bolt in the joint, and will form an oval shaped hole after a few months in service and can resault in considerable dangerous movement in an arm or link.

After extensive testing, i am sticking with my thought that tramp is a system resonance caused by stored system energy being released through the wheel when wheelspin occurs, that’s energy being again stored and then release resulting in broken slip/grip wheelspin as the car moves along the road. If full wheelspin occurs, this bypasses the tramp mode, but of course forward progress is minimal.

Perhaps I should join the white flag crew and use electronics to stop wheelspin. I look forward to reading your comments. Please foregive typos, hard going on my iphone at night. Cheers
 
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Ron, is your suspension setup the same as the one I am using? I am curious about the vibrating lower control arm. On my unit, this arm has the non-spherical bushings on either end and thus defines the lower trailing arm plane, with the other lower arm having a spherically rotating joint. The bracket holding the inner end of the lower trailing arm (the one that you saw vibrating) on the stock cradle that I have is a U-Shaped steel stamping cantilevering off the cradle shell. Although the cradle shell is boxed at this attachment, I can see where there might be some deflection in the structure here, likely in a vertical direction at the inner joint.

I watched the BMR before and after videos of the cradle lockout and was surprised by how much the stock bushings move. With the Camaro bushing diameter at 3 ½”, how much of that is for deflection? It has to be too much!

I am making a new cradle setup to hold new control arms parallel to the vehicle as you mentioned. The stock geometry makes my teeth hurt! The control arms will be attached to adjustment plates on aluminum outriggers attached to the 2x3 frame rails. I have drawings but this site makes it too difficult to post them.

Actually, I’m building a rolling “test” chassis adaptable to a variety of venues and vehicle types. Most important toward this end is the adjustable inner control arm attachment plates I am using. This is to vary the location of the control arm instant centers and thus the roll center (I think more correctly called the suspension linkage fulcrum point), camber gain, track change, etc.
The vehicle design weight is 2500 lb. however the cradle mount assembly shown in the photos was designed to wheelstand a 3500 lb. car - the black iron bolts shown are structural bridge items (I used to design bridges). With this design, I could cut off the frame rails shown in the photos and hang the whole assembly under other cars. You can buy a complete Gen 5 Camaro IRS for US$400. With a heavier vehicle, I would change the suspension outriggers to steel. The outriggers are not installed in the photos.

Cibachrome, the differential will be solidly mounted in the chasses initially with the stock bushings. The aluminum angles shown in the photos are slotted to allow adjusting both the pinion angle and lateral offset, and the differential height (notice the A325 slip critical bridge bolts). The bolts have weld washers to weld it all up (not the bolts) when it is aligned, if necessary. I plan to convert the driveshaft to a conventional phased U joint driveshaft since it will have to be custom made anyway.
I’ve heard of reversing engine rotation but never knew why. Do they flip the ring gear? Doesn’t this just mirror the problem? Would this be the same as turning the engine around and running a V-drive?
I’m also studying the geometry in view of the roll understeer you mentioned (my setup is the SS). I need to simplify this geometry; is it all necessary? My favorite driving car ever, ever was my Dart go kart. Simplify.

Somebody mentioned wrinkle slicks. I have to do some more study on this but I believe they act in the same way as a buckling type ship’s fender on a wharf, only in a torsional direction. They absorb energy in a buckling mode which is non-linear and therefore capable of absorbing a lot more energy than if in a purely elastic mode. But, unlike a marine fender, a wrinkle slick can run out of buckling wrap and then go elastic. A wrinkle slick should be perfect for the acceleration direction but it limits other directional uses of this type of tire?

Does anybody have any ideas on the two axis differential torsional vibration as a possibility? The pumpkin weighs 140 lb but has a low polar moment of inertia. I really have no idea.

Bob

 
Bob, I will try to figure out how to send GoPro vision to this forum as it really is fantastic, especially the diff and the wheel tramping. My setup is the same with the exception that the lower rear arm that contains the strut is rubber mounted to the hub whereas your s is a letter version that uses a spherical joint. I made up new trailing arms with inner spherical joints, hence threaded for camber and toe adjustments. I also bought some 2017 Camaro toe arms that have wonderful spherical joints with legal rubber boots too; hence defining the arc taken somewhat. Note that because the upper L arm and the lower “wishbone” pivot planes are not parallel, then the original toe arm was designed to twist as the vulcanised rubber bush squished up and added a moment to this arm. With the amazingly good value spherical toe arms now available from Camaro, twist in the toe arm has to be zero as the spherical joints will only allow axial forces. A bridge guy like you will be familiar with the Tacoma Narrows bridge resonate failure; vision really is similar. Plenty of YouTube vision of the bridge as per this link and worth a look.

Re the trailing arm mount. This is the weak link in the cradle attachments. It looks underdone and when the wheel tramps, the wheel wobbles around in a “figure 8 path” about the lower control arm hub link, a spherical joint in your setup. This means additional forces adding to the thrust from the tyre pushes/pulls the trailing arm and vision indicates that this joint could do with a simple brace. I was hoping to mount a damper “Hopnot” idea to the cradle near this joint. That is why I went to a solid AL cradle mount to eliminate cradle movement as limited room prohibited a damper mounting back to the “frame”. Pity the forum prohibits personal email contact...... but I will try to figure out the GoPro file issue. Building a tube cradle to allow proper top and bottom wishbones would allow good quality joints to be used. Please note that I agree with Greg, that the problem starts with the engine and the energy stored in the mounts. Fancy damping at that end may reap more reward.

The link shows a photo of the Camaro toe arm, a bargain at $100 pair, and trailing arm with an inner spherical joint and its bracket that could be stronger. The standard trailing arm being rubber jointed at both ends; you have to have at least one joint to “squish” to allow the toe arm to do its job.
 
Ron,
I wanted to confirm that this is the deflecting bracket. This photo was taken with me standing above and to the left front of the differential, looking back and down on the bracket and cradle bushing. The arm has been removed but the bolt left in place. I measured the sheet steel in the bracket and cradle shell and they are both 0.11 in thick. I can see where this would deflect.

Bob
 
 http://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=ed3af24d-c13b-466a-973c-cb30d756953d&file=DSCN1329.JPG
BOB, your trailing arm bracket looks slightly different. The photo link of mine shows the original trailing arm and toe rod, before I cleaned it! Note the top part of the bracket. Looks suspect. The original TA has a very soft rubber bush and when tramping this bush obviously will flex. Close look at my GoPro vision shows some vibration in the bracket, and it does seem a bit light for the task especially when harder joints are used. If you zoom in on the photo you will see what I mean.
 
 http://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=8634c69b-bc8d-421b-986e-6b6c4439b1c5&file=9536A113-BE48-418E-AFAE-52433ABAF1E0.jpeg
Ron,
Agreed, your bracket looks light compared to the one on the cradle I have.
How far away are you from testing your setup on the road?

Bob

 
Hi to Greg and others, I have attached a go-pro video comprising a few shots of various drivetrain pieces tramping showing a VE Commodore suspension as it tramps. Of note is the engine bay, first as standard, (note how the steering fluid aerates) then engine bay with the addition of a damper; a massive reduction in resonance and confirms Greg's theory that this is the start of tramp. The diff in resonance is an eye opener. The diff has two soft rubber front mounts and a single offset rear mount (in line with the crown wheel). Note how under acceleration the diff rises at the front pivoting about the rear, then resonates fiercely again pivoting about the rear.

The vision of the gear stick in the cabin is scary and more so as the Tremec T56 box weirdly mounts the gear change mechanism to the body, hence the front of the mechanism is attached to the shifter rails! Why on earth it isn't mounted fully to the box is presumably to reduce NVH, but seeing it resonate madly, obviously in tune with the engine, is indeed enough to make any driver lift the throttle.

The wheel hub end videos are more subtle and generally show that the loss of traction results in again a resonance of the hub that moves according to how soft the various rubber mounts move. Interestingly, using polyurethance at the joints does little to fix tramp, despite claims by suppliers of these items. The hub seems to pivot about the lower control arm mount (the one that also mounts the strut). Later models use a spherical joint at this location but defying theory, this does little to reduce the tramp.

Greg, I agree that the engine resonance passes along the drivetrain at the point of traction loss and basically it is a system resonance that shakes all the bits in this system. Solutions then are to make the system stiffer to raise the resonance point. I favour using the immpressive results of the engine damper and apply it to the rear sections.

I will take more GoPro of the rear end now that I have added solid cradle mounts, spherical joints, and stiffened the diff mounts too. Again, it is only wet road tramp that is worth bothering about to test a "cure" as dry road tramp is harder to induce and far less violent. More time spend in "slip mode" on wet roads allows more energy to be released hence is more violent, well that's my thought! I have followed the "Steeda" and BMR" results of "fixing" IRS Mustang tramp with stiffer rear joints with interest and note that they never seem to test on wet roads!! Their videos show only the third stage; being massive wheelspin. First stage is grip, second stage is slip/grip tramp, third stage is too much power overcoming traction and lots of smoke; hence proving nothing as a standard car using too much power does exactly the same thing. Solving stage two is the challenge. My videos also clearly show that the wheel does not hop, it merely oscillates from slip to grip. I have attached a photo of the resultant rubber marks left on the road when tramping and the grip stage is when the wheel/tyre is still on the ground. Live rear ends can indeed hop into the air but unlikely with IRS. I hope the video "attaches" okay. Otherwise I will have to post a link to something like photobucket. I can only try!

I await your comment gentlemen.
 
 https://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=2572b502-52c6-4be3-b500-d9184b2520fd&file=wheel_hop.jpg
M4v video files on this forum do not seem to work! Can someone suggest how to post videos here? They work fine one my iPad and on a windows 10 laptop, but not when posted via this forum. I will explore photobucket. Pity as they are very good tramp videos.
 
Forget about using Photobucket. There are a lot of people who are very angry about losing illustrations in their forum posts due to a recent change by P-bucket to stop allowing files stored on their site to be linked to from other sites. They didn't even allow already-existing links to remain. They gave people a "work-around", but it'll cost you about $400 US to P-bucket. Might be an annual expense, I don't use them so I don't know.

Best bet . . . post the videos up to Youtube and go from there.


Norm
 
OK, here's the surgical solution instead of homeopathic Bandaids. Your drive-line + tires + roadway is in a state of positive feedback control (negative slope on mu-slip ). You can attenuate the feedback loop by rebuilding the tramp symmetry into asymmetric geometry. This will/can/could cut the feedback loop gain down by a considerable amount.

So, staggard shock geometry F/A and L/R, different port and starboard axle stiffness, cradle mounts and ladder rung placement, different cradle mounts left/right and even different rim widths and air pressures should give you a respectable launch.

The other solutions are merely damping control mechanisms to dissipate the energy in the system. Geometric solutions reduce the (positive) feed forward loop gain by means of proportional (displacement based) feedback attenuation. Damping solutions reduce the derivative (velocity based) feedback. Pinion nose pitch has a positive integral (U-joint angle) component so a nose bumper helps if it goes "Up". Set the rest of the geometry up for best direct power transfer at the torque level you can sustain. A quasi-static test (lever arm on the front prop-shaft with a come-a-long on the end) should reveal the magnitude of the displacements to you. A K&C machine can/will also mimic this phenom if it's run in an "inertia relief" mode. (All tire and driveline forces and moments applied externally with minimum chassis restraints (F/A, yaw, lateral). On MTS K&C systems you can animate this process at about 2 Hz. and make some startling videos. Perhaps the A.B. machines can do it too (call Morse Measurements and talk with Bob Simon).

That's my Controls Engineering analysis of power hop, tramp and launch.
 
I thought the whole thread was great. Thanks to all for participating and I have changed some mounting thinking on a current IRS build.

I believe we are waiting for some follow-up GoPro. Cheers to Ron for hanging in there.

A rookie.
 
Agreed this was/is a great thread. What are your latest thoughts on your IRS build?
I'm going with stock diff. carrier bushings but a direct mount to the frame, no cradle.

Now I'm bothered by why they use the different-stiffness half-shafts. Has anybody experimented with different weights of wheels to tune the rotational vibrations? How about a set of those J.C. Whitney dynamic wheel balancing rings you just snap on under your hubcap? Fill them with that electro-magnetic shock absorber fluid?
 
Stay tuned for the YouTube videos, just trying to do it without getting 500 comments from non-engineers! I hope to take more GoPro of the current, generally well tied down irs. Still trying to adapt a damper to the hubs and would ideally like to dampen the diff. Solid cradle mounts give no annoying vibrations. The premise that I, and Greg, believe is that the resonance all starts at the engine seems true with the hard to understand bit being why doesn’t the tailshadt with its flex joints at each end apparently transmitting the vibrations. Stay tuned for the diff video hitting resonance, worth the wait!
 
I will update the IRS single trailing arm thread soon. I have completed one arm and now building some pedestals to weld to a table to verify the thinking. I probably won't go back and change anything that is already done but at least I will know what is up and make the best of what I have with adjustments. I am not counting on a fail, but just know there are always unknowns. (Tramp)

Of interest during this work might be how easy it was to push a whole spherical bearing out of a rod end. We have several ideas how to remedy that and plan on verifying. I only have four rod ends that can get hit axially. Interesting that it only took 2000 lbs to press out the spheical bearing axially with the rod end rated at 100klbs. We are looking into options but only four out of 20 or so could get hit axially on a regular basis.

This thread has got a couple groups thinking about tramp. In our "Hot Rod" breakfast group, one just sold his Camaro after trying most everything to calm the rear down. I am pretty sure he had already hard mounted the diff, but how far after that, I am not sure. In our offroad group/team we are experiencing some awful driveline vibrations. We have an over-all winning rig that will do 137mph on dry lakes, 90mph in 3' whoops, and climb 10' waterfalls, etc. Everything is rigid mounted to the frame. Bolted or 1.25" rod ends that get changed out every couple races at least. Unfortunately we cannot see tramp at the tires, or at least we think we can't. The tire tread continues into the side wall so we always think of chatter coming from the roosts as tread related. We will look closer now. (Exaggerated tread on the sidewalls can cost you over 70hp at well under 90mph as it is a fan.)

From a drivetrain standpoint we have 4 driveshafts. Only the rear one "moves." And they are HEAVY. They have to survive instant stopping of a tire hitting rocks and landing jumps. And the back one has to survive 90 mph solid rock hits. 4000 stall converters are used to divorce the engine from this abuse, and T400 Transmissions can run $28K. It is a crazy world we run in. Now looking into double wall per this thread.

The rear differential on the straight axle racer is intentionally moved as close as possible to either rear wheel. This allows the driver to center skid over most 18" rocks. Drivers will put a wheel on the bigger ones. The wheel protects the differential and somewhat the driveshaft. This makes the rear axle shaft lengths different. 40 spline or nearly 2" diameter is common. One shaft is around 5' and the other less than 2'. For weight and stiffness they are gun drilled. Newer double 4 bar triangulated suspensions have virtually eliminated any axle wrap, and rear steer. Historically, if there is anything going on minimizing bite it is first attacked with position sensitive shocks, then pinion angles and anti's. Common now is driveshaft CV's. They are trying torsion bars for driveshafts in some graded dirt series with jumps so they can land on the gas. In offroad we always have "wet pavement".

So thanks. We are looking at this from the different angles. (The more you know. The more you don't know)

 
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