laser cutting 11ga stainless with pvc coating

[laserh20]

We have a job that requires us to cut stainless steel with pvc coating on one side. the application requires that we leave the pvc coating on the material. we have attempted to score the pvc with low wattage and a raised focal point and then cut the stainless. The coating blows off when we attempt to pierce and cut the material. We have tried nitrogen as the assist gas at a range of pressures (125psi-200psi) and the film still blows off. We also tried oxygen cutting the material at 20 psi and the film still blows off. Does anyone have experience with a similar application that could offer some guidance?

 

[Nova852]

We had somewhat the same situation with 16ga S/S #7 finish. If we preburned, the residue left behind required to much cleanup. We resolved to removing the PVC completely at the laser and reapplying it afterward. We purchased a small lamination roll set and run the parts through to reapply the PVC. It works great and eliminated the cleanup, which took much longer than the reapplication.

 

[tplaser]

Ask your stainless supplier to use laser grade pvc coating. The adhesive is stronger and usualy solves the problem.

 

[laserh20]

thanks for the information. our customer had already purchased the material. We are stuck with what we have. We brought them in on Saturday and explained the problem. They were understanding and are allowing us to remove the pvc film. We also spoke to the supplier about laservinyl. This is a new film that is supposed to be more "laser friendly" does anyone have experience with this material? Do you have to pre burn or can you cut through the vinyl and the stainless at the same time?

 

[JayMaechtlen]

I don't know whose laser you use, but some good work was done at Amada fairly recently on film, adhesive tack levels, and piercing and cutting techniques.
Sorry, I don't have the paper at hand.
It might be available?
regards
Jay Jay Maechtlen

 

[tplaser]

Generaly speaking, you do not have to pre-burn the vinal. Adjustments to the gas pressure during piercing may help. Once through the vinal and stainless, the gas can be ramped up. Cutting pvc coated material should not be a problem for most newer machines.

 

[BigRed2]

Can anyone tell me what an entry level laser cutter costs? WHat is the smallest unit availalbe. I am looking to cut 10 ga mild steel.

 

[JayMaechtlen]

For 10 ga. mild steel, you don't need a lot of power to just cut cleanly with Oxygen. 600W to 1000W is fine.
To cut fast with Oxy, more power could be helpful.
If you need paintable edges (Nitrogen cut) you want a bunch of power.
Size of parts and desired sheet size is also pretty important! Will everything fit into a 1 meter square area, or do you want to cut bigger stuff?

Also- you may want to pick up a good used machine, rather than a cheap new machine.
(used Chevrolet or Mercedes, versus new Kia or Hyundai)
- YMMV- there are always factors on either side of the fence- depends on what you are trying to sell...
cheers
Jay



Jay Maechtlen

 

[caren]

hello,

Laser cutting PE coated sheet is very common, and so is this problem.
There is , unfortunitly, not much you can do, if the P.E has a low grip adhevsive. The gas pressure will get under it and blow it up. You can try to do a pre burn at the pierce point. This can seal the film around the pierce and stop the pressure getting under, but if the film lifts while the head is in motion, it's game over.
All good St/St suppliers should stock laser film, which if it is applied properly will cut with no problems. Even with this material, though, I normally still do pre-burns at the pierce points.

Good Luck.

 

[bentesko]

I have used probably every Laser PVC brand out there and the one that holds best is manufactured by "NITTO" called "Pro-Techno for LASER CUTTING" I have never had to pre-melt this material.

 

[RONCO]

Who is your steel supplier for this "NITTO" material. I am having trouble location this specific material.

 

[LtReb]

We use the Nitto material and it is excellent for stopping blowups. Our problem is that we have to peel the film off before shipping parts to our customer. Our parts are 20 and 18 gauge and are formed. The adhesive is so aggresive that we are deforming the parts when we try to peel them. Even if we do not deform parts, it takes considerable labor to get the film off. Either way, it is killing us for production. Anybody have a solution?

 

[ubrales]

Laserh20, try a product referred to as "NITTO" usually blue, but can also be obtained as a clear film. This Nitto film will withstand laser cutting, punching and also deep drawing and forming. When the product is fully processed, this film can be peeled off. When applied to stainless steel, the film can be cut using a brass knife without damaging the stainless steel (usually for QA purposes). Well worth the somewhat higher initial cost that will lead to a lower total cost.

 

[ARCHY]

Two options:-

(1) Stand with your face glued to the machine and your finger on the stop button waiting for the plastic to blow.

(2) Remove the plastic and let the machine stand alone whilst you do something more useful.

The machine is never in contact with the material, so why bother leaving the plastic on.

It may sound straight forward, but only because i have tried everything to overcome the problem myself. (there is no guarentee)
The most productive is to remove the plastic.

Archy

 

[cesil]

Pierce all holes first press pvc back down it should restick ,Then start cutting profiles pvc will not be blown off and will stay on profiled part. good luck.