Laser etching with Trumpf CO2 laser

[TrumpfUser]

Hello,

I'm working on bringing the ability to etch part numbers into our parts and replace the old way (hand stamping every part).

I have had some success so far but it is far too time consuming to fully jump in.

I am attaching a screenshot of my tech tables for 1/4" A36 marking. The parts are powdercoated after we etch them so the etching needs to be deep enough to show through after that process. These settings show up but could be deeper (and would prefer them to be deeper and more defined).

This brings me to my question.... which settings should I change to make the marking deeper and also bring it up to the default 120 in/min.

 

[TrumpfUser]

I'm sorry I should have noted that this is a Trumpf 5030 5k

 

[RPosty]

wow, don't think I have seen a 5KW CO2 laser used this way, I am sure others have. Is this something you are going to do a lot? What kind of budget are you working with? If money is no object, a Fiber Laser is excellent at marking metal and requires no coatings. If smaller budget a used Nd/Yag Galvo system works great too. If you are hell bent on using a CO2 Laser, try different focal length lenses. see how a 7.5" works compared to a 5" etc. Maybe someone here has experience trying what you are trying, if not play around with vastly different Frequencies, Pulse widths, duty etc. I think you can rule out CW mode. I wonder if your laser can be used like a Dot Matrix Printer? They may even have a program for that function, you never know.

Good Luck and have fun with it.

"I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, 'cause they are stuck on me"

 

[TrumpfUser]

This isn't the sole purpose of the machine. We are cutting the plate to make the actual parts. I am just trying to etch the part number while the machine is cutting it (reducing the amount of times the material is being handled)

I also have a 3030 trumpf 3kw that I will be taking this knowledge over to.

 

[nicknick]

I run a 2000 w amada and often etch part numbers for the guys at the press but not for after powder coat but i have experimented to try to go deeper i usually just put what speed i want then raise power till i get the desired result.I have found that the deeper you go the more risk of getting slag on your lens increases due to more material blowing up and not down. also if you go to high of power certain parts of the etch may go all the way thru from getting to hot.on 3/16 hot rolled i run 150 in min 400w 2000 freq 18 duty gas nitro 1 bar and get a plain old etch. with a 5 in lens.

 

[Foostrap]

Play with the power. If you go too high, it may try to start to cut, resulting in ugly etching, but should still be visible after powder painting. If you don't care too much what it looks like, as long as you can read it, you may have to use 2 passes slightly offset from one another.