Lubrication tips on a new engine

[BuntaGR]

Hi,
I'm about to buy an engine for my car, and the thing is that this engine got out of the ford factory before 19 years and for some reasons she never used and stayed in stock of a store.
So she's brand new...sort of speak.
The problem is how do i do the lubrication?
I have to open it and lubricate like a we do after an overhaul?
Or i can fill her with oil and start crankning without the spark plugs?


Thanks!

 

[ivymike]

interesting question. it would probably be worthwhile to do some sort of internal inspection to evaluate whether any corrosion has occurred. If you open it up to some extent, you can easily apply lube to some areas during reassembly. A bit of oil down each spark plug hole couldn't hurt.

would it be feasible in this case to pump oil through the oil system via an external pump for a while?

 

[jmw]

That brings back the days when new cars had signs in the back window: "Running In. Please Pass." Yeah, Ok further back than 19 years but still, it happened.

JMW

http://www.ViscoAnalyser.com

 

[evelrod]

I have a TRD Toyota 2TC race engine that has been on the shelf since new, something like 12 years. I would not hesitate in filling it up with oil and cranking it over to pressure and then firing it up. But...I know how it was built and what was used as an assembly lube. Now it's a totally different game with an unknown Ford engine, never mind the 19 years it's been on the shelf. I'd do like Ivymike and do a basic tear down of the bottom end, re lube everything, oil the cylinders, oil the top end, and, above all, wipe the cam lobes with a suitable EP lube. Even if everything turns out to be perfect, the piece of mind will be invaluable in the long run.

Rod

 

[Bribyk]

Definitely prelube it using a drill and old distributor shaft before cranking or starting. It's probably worth a look inside. Pull the oil pan and look at the cylinder walls while turning it over by hand to see if the walls are corroded. Ford likely preps their crate engines for storage to prevent damage and corrosion.

 

[patprimmer]

I would not worry to much about the bottom end which is what will get the advantage of the drill trick, but I would be a bit worried about the bores and very worried about the valve guides.

Remove push rods and oil the valve stems and leave to soak.

Spray some WD40 or oil down the bores and leave to soak.

After the soak time, gently tap the valves with a soft hammer to see if the valves are free. If not, oil and gently tap until they are or if necessary remove heads and strip, lightly ream the guides and reassemble.

Also with spark plugs and push rods still removed, gently rock the crank back and forward and reapply lube until the engine turns freely. If this proves to difficult you may need to pull the engine down.

My guess is it will free up easily.

Once you have every thing moving freely, apply EP assembly lube to the cam, followers and push rod tips. Oil the rocker arms, fill with "disposable" oil and prime the oil pump or crank up oil pressure with no spark plugs in.

Instal push rods, adjust tappets, install plugs, prime fuel system and start it. Run at about 2500 rpm no load for say 20 or 30 min. Shut down, change oil and filter, receck fuel system, ignition and tappets, use and enjoy.

Regards
Pat
See FAQ731-376 for tips on use of eng-tips by professional engineers for professional engineers

 

[rmw]

Change the shaft seals proactively before installng the engine. They have probably dry rotted in 19 years. If they haven't I still wouldn't take the chance vs. the cost of changing them.

rmw

 

[BuntaGR]

That's what i was thinking to do...i will open her completely and lubricate.
it's a cvh engine with hydraulic tappets...
Is any possibility that the piston rings would do any damage to the cylinder cause they are siting in the same spot for 19 years?


Thanks for your suggestions they are very helpfull!!

 

[patprimmer]

No
The problems will be corrosion and some valve springs will have lost some tension

Regards
Pat
See FAQ731-376 for tips on use of eng-tips by professional engineers for professional engineers

 

[ivymike]

I'd have said "yes, the problems will be corrosion..." (possibly local corrosion of the cylinder wall in the region around the rings)

If you can't see it when you open it up, it's probably not enough to worry about.