zorans
Mechanical
- Nov 1, 2010
- 15
I have experienced following problems with 4" #1500 ball valves - metal seated, top entry, double-block-and-bleed.
4" #1500 Ball valve is with seats that are pushed by springs against the ball. In the middle of ball valve, there is 1/2" hole drilled to ball cavity in which we connected drain ball valve 1/2"#1500.
Here is the scenario...
1. With closed 4" ball valve was pressurized it from one side with 100 bar of natural gas.
2. With 1/2" drain ball valve connected to ball cavity we checked seat leakage by opening the valve and no leak was detected - which means metal seat is tight on that side
3. Using 3/4" bypass line around 4" ball valve we pressurized same ball valve from the other side on the same pressure - and still no leakage
4. 1/2" Drain valve was closed and 4" ball valve opened/closed - 3-4 times, letting gas go inside the valve and valve cavity
5. We tried to open 1/2" drain ball valve again to release the pressure from valve cavity, but after just small opening it was leaking and not stopping
for 5-6 mins
6. We closed back the 1/2" valve and tried to release the pressure after the 4" ball valve on 1" relief pipe down the line to atmosphere but the pressure remained 100 bar - like the ball valve is open
This all very strange to me.
I think it might have something with springs and metal sealing when the pressure enters the ball cavity -
maybe that pressure is causing springs and seats not to function well.
Hope for some help on this...
4" #1500 Ball valve is with seats that are pushed by springs against the ball. In the middle of ball valve, there is 1/2" hole drilled to ball cavity in which we connected drain ball valve 1/2"#1500.
Here is the scenario...
1. With closed 4" ball valve was pressurized it from one side with 100 bar of natural gas.
2. With 1/2" drain ball valve connected to ball cavity we checked seat leakage by opening the valve and no leak was detected - which means metal seat is tight on that side
3. Using 3/4" bypass line around 4" ball valve we pressurized same ball valve from the other side on the same pressure - and still no leakage
4. 1/2" Drain valve was closed and 4" ball valve opened/closed - 3-4 times, letting gas go inside the valve and valve cavity
5. We tried to open 1/2" drain ball valve again to release the pressure from valve cavity, but after just small opening it was leaking and not stopping
for 5-6 mins
6. We closed back the 1/2" valve and tried to release the pressure after the 4" ball valve on 1" relief pipe down the line to atmosphere but the pressure remained 100 bar - like the ball valve is open
This all very strange to me.
I think it might have something with springs and metal sealing when the pressure enters the ball cavity -
maybe that pressure is causing springs and seats not to function well.
Hope for some help on this...