My thread disappeared 5

[Parker87]

So I posted a thread yesterday, asking a question about the structural integrity of a steel stand I want to build. The thread seemed to have disappeared, even though its link and short preview show up when I use the forum's built-in search function. The link is dead—it displays an error page. It looks like I received some responses, but I'm unable to see them since I can't access the thread.

Does anyone know what happened and why? Was it taken down? Was it moved to a different section of the forums?

The URL of the thread was

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=472328.

 

[3DDave]

I didn't see it. The usual reason is the question isn't one a professional engineer would be dealing with, such as do-it-yourself help or student/coursework. "Promoting, selling, recruiting, coursework and thesis posting is forbidden"

I don't moderate anything, so I don't know what the particular reason is.

As far as I know posts aren't moved, just deleted.

 

[hokie66]

Perhaps your thread violated the site policies? If you are not an engineer, that could be it, as this site is for advice from one engineer to another, not for DIY projects.

 

[Parker87]

I AM an engineer, just not a structural one. I was neither promoting, selling, recruiting, nor asking for help related to any coursework. I guess it can be considered a DIY project, but where is this mentioned in the posting guidelines? I was being professional and asking specific technical questions from an engineering standpoint. From the types and variety of subjects addressed in other threads I've read on here, I don't really see why the one I posted would be taken down.

 

[Parker87]

I did include a technical drawing and an external link to a relevant section of an official LG spec sheet (in PDF format, hosted on Dropbox). Could this have been the culprit?

And, if there was an issue with my post, why wasn't I warned or at least told what I did wrong so I know not to do it again?

Whatever happened, some people where kind enough to respond and I'm unable to even see what they wrote now.

 

[3DDave]

Lack of warning is likely because there is a continuous drizzle of people making removable posts; it probably wears on the moderators. Linking to copyrighted material seems like a good reason. The potential for a suit is reason enough.

 

[Parker87]

What copyrighted material? I did the drawing myself and the PDF pages were extracted from LG's installation manual which is publicly available, both offline and online.

And even if that link was the problem, it could easily have been removed from the OP instead of deleting the entire thread without any notice or explanation.

 

[hokie66]

You probably became collateral damage, due to an overzealous member who red-flagged your thread. I suggest doing it again, and be sure to identify yourself as an engineer at the beginning.

 

[3DDave]

Publicly available doesn't mean being able to post your own copy of it. I'd still say, too much to moderate. For users, this is a more of a cooperative rather than a service on demand.

I agree with hokie66 and repost - but I'd just link directly to the document source.

 

[IRstuff]

DIY postings are typically deleted because this site is intended for work-related questions. Likewise, posting questions outside of your discipline risks you and the public if you fail to understand the replies. The management of the sire does not want this site to turn into an adjunct of "This Old House," with a non-professionals asking and answering questions with no technical background.

TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKorP55Aqvg

faq731-376 forum1529 Entire Forum list

http://www.eng-tips.com/forumlist.cfm

 

[r13]

IRstuff,

You post/respond/comment quite often in this structural forum with a discipline of "Aerospace", I don't see it is wrong, but is it proper by your definition?

 

[LittleInch]

Parker 87,

It happens occasionally that a post disappears, but report red flags are looked at by a human and humans make judgements you may not agree with.

This site aims to keep it as it says on the top "intelligent work forums for Engineering professionals".

However if you want to maybe try in this forum instead

https://www.eng-tips.com/threadminder.cfm?pid=1528

you might get some help.

From the title LG spec it sounds like you wanted to mount a large TV?? That's not really what this forum is about I'm afraid.

There is a bit of zero tolerance about what is seen an non professional as otherwise this forum in particular could get swamped with home owners looking for free engineering



Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.

 

[r13]

Why TV mounting does not concern structural? Also note, all or most of us here are looking for something free - knowledge/experience/advice, and offer free advice in return, but none of us is willing to offer free services, so why worry?!

 

[Skylar]

Hi Parker87,

Community manager here!

Your post had multiple red flags on it suggesting it was a DIY from a non-engineer.

I apologize if the decision to delete your post was wrong and this was in fact not a DIY.

If you'd like, you are welcome to repost. I would suggest including the fact that you are an engineer in the post if it looks like a DIY.

Hope this helps!

 

[r13]

Great response! Hope the management is more open and clear from here on and going forward.

BTW, you (manager) should be alert if the person/member red-flag a thread on topic outside of his own discipline. It happens quite often, and could be false.

 

[SteelPE]

I am going to take a different approach. The is a technical forum where professionals ask for opinions and help from other professionals. Quite often you have a DIYer coming on here and asking questions which typically get deleted. The typical DIYer can easily be identified as someone who:

1) Is asking a technical question and isn't using the correct terminology
2) Is asking an incredibly basic question that someone in a 1st year engineering course would know
3) Just created an account for the first time and is asking technical questions in a very basic manner

I did not see your post, but I am betting you checked of a few of those boxes. I also know for a fact that you checked off box #3.

I have seen DIYers on here ask questions regarding removing of columns from buildings (quite dangerous if not done correctly). We had a post over the weekend regarding someone asking why his flatbed trailer bent when driving over a stump.

I think the moderators do a pretty good job at keeping everyone on track even if I don't agree with all of what they remove.

 

[r13]

I wouldn't mind to offer my opinion/advice to person not familiar with structural, but do have a question worth to address. A person may come here with removing a column in mind, he will leave with the definite answer, either simply a "no, you can't", or "please contact a structural engineer..." I'll ignore his thread, or red-flag it, if this person open with "can you design/calculate...for me".

Don't forget that we are "the professional" that know how to judge the weight of an issue, not thinking/acting like a kid anymore.

 

[dik]

Thanks Skylar... it would be appreciated if engineers could simply answer the question rather than red flagging it... it's more productive and informative.

Dik

 

[dik]

I'd answered it in general detail. I realised that you were a software engineer and not a structural engineer. Some of my comments were as follows:

I'd make the horizontal members HSS 1-1/2x1-1/2 and the vertical members should remain at HSS 2x2; wall thickness appears to be more than adequate for the loads. This makes it easier for a fillet weld to be used all around. The HSS 2x2 should extend up to the top with a 1/8" cap plate seal welded on top to keep any moisture out. The HSS 2x2 should also extend to the bottom.

Welding should be 5mm fillet welds, E70xx electrodes (keep dry).

You might consider enlarging the base a bit, for stability.

You might consider securing the top to an adjacent wall to prevent tipping.

You have to mount it on something solid. Your 'through' bolts through the bottom HSS should be avoided. Weld 1/4"x2x2 tabs to the base tubes with a 5/16" hole and use Tapcon type anchors.

You should look into a coating system... HDG for isoutside is best... something lesser would be (from my project notes) and there may be an American equivalent (I've used this on numerous saw mills, it is a good, relatively inexpensive coating system):

SYSTEM 08: QUALITY PRIMER WITH TOPCOAT (EXTERIOR)
BASE METAL -STEEL
CLEANING -TO SSPC-SP 1 AND SSPC-SP 6
PRIMER -DEVOE 'DEVGUARD 4160 - MULTIPURPOSE TANK AND STRUCTURAL PRIMER'
TOPCOAT -DEVOE 'DTM URETHANE-ALKYD GLOSS ENAMEL'
ALT: DEVOE 'DEVTHANE 379H - ALIPHATIC URETHANE GLOSS ENAMEL'

and again, please accept my apologies; we're actually more friendly than that. And you should have a local engineer check the design.

Added Note: You might want to include 1/2"dia drain holes at the bottom of the posts if you are in a freezing climate.

Dik

 

[dik]

SteelPE and Hokie:
That's exactly what he did... he was a software engineer and not a structural one.

Dik