Rat urine corroded steel 1

[ricckk]

Yes, I AM VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY ANGRY!!! Somehow a rat got into where I had one of my PRIZED rifles stashed. (yes, the rifle was stored horizontally instead of vertically). BIG MISTAKE!! On my behalf. The RAT made a nice comfortable little nest up against it and defecated all over it . I had not taken my rifle out for at least 3 months for cleaning and a storage greasing treatment. The previously beautifully blued steel receiver and the trigger, trigger guard, and part of the barrel are now HEAVILY corroded. (Please refer to attachments for photos.) I did not even know there were rodents in my home. So obviously, I now have 3 problems. 1. I immediately need to tend to this rat situation before it becomes an infestation. If its not already! And 2. How do I neutralize and remove the urine? 3. Is there any possible way of repairing the corrosion? Any advice or comments or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you all in advance for your help!!

 

[EdStainless]

Probably unsavable, but until you really know how deep the pitting is you can't be sure.
Take it apart, completely apart.
Scrub with brush and hot soapy water.
Rinse well.
The you have three choices for removing the rust.
-Use a chemical rest remover (lots of YouTube videos extolling one or another of these)
-Use an electrolytic process (again look on YouTube)
-Use steel wool or med sandpaper.
If the pitting isn't too deep and hasn't destroyed any internal parts then you can strip them down and re-blue them.
But the lever is lost, don't even bother with it unless as a test piece. Buy a new one of those.

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P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed

 

[dik]

As Ed notes, the lever appears to be done; you need a replacement. You have to disassemble it, including removal of the barrel if possible. If the internal parts are OK, it is likely possible to salvage it. It's a matter of removing the rust from the receiver and seeing how deep. This will have to be sanded smoothe. Then it's a matter of polishing it. It's been 40 years since I've blued anything but with care you can end up with a lovely finish... just like a real gunsmith. I don't know what the processes are now.

So strange to see the singularity approaching while the entire planet is rapidly turning into a hellscape. -John Coates

-Dik

 

[EdStainless]

You can still buy bluing kits.
They aren't as fast or deep as they used to be, but they are safer to use.
Just remember that the first 4 steps are clean, clean, clean, and clean.
Anything on the surface will be more visible after bluing.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed

 

[dik]

With care, the blueing can be deep, dark and beautiful... I don't recall the products I used. My first project was for a No.1 MK.3 Lee Enfield. Used the full rifle the first year deer hunting, and for the next year, cut away all wood that wasn't needed. It was a WW1 rifle and the existing blueing was beautiful... made a sporting rifle out of it and even inlayed a diamond on the forearm and checkered the stock, and cut the magazine down flush with the 'trigger guard plate' and blued the receiver and parts... polished everything using tripoli (sp?). The stock was finished with about 10 coats of Varathane... I was 17 when I did this... Got my second deer the next season... first one a single shot at about 50 yards (I was a reasonably good shot), the second one about 7 or 8 shots... I had to re-load. My cousing still laughs about it... he said I put so much lead in the air he couldn't escape... only time I've had 'buck fever', one of shots was broadside at about 10'... and missed...

So strange to see the singularity approaching while the entire planet is rapidly turning into a hellscape. -John Coates

-Dik

 

[SwinnyGG]

The 336 is still being made and are relatively inexpensive, and not at all rare.

Step 1: take to a real gunsmith for an estimate

Step 2: provide that estimate to your insurance company

Step 3: collect payment from your insurer and buy a brand new 336

 

[TugboatEng]

You have pitting. It will show through any bluing. You can try to belt sand through the pitting but I think you'll find it will remove an unreasonable amount of material.

If you want to improve the appearance of the gun but not keep it original, you could media blast the pieces, fill the pitting with a metal filled epoxy, and apply a non-translucent coating like Cerakote.

You may want to avoid Cerakote, though. People may think it's an assault rifle.

 

[ricckk]

THANK YOU ALL for your comments and suggestions!!! Today I had a little bit of time to examine the gun more carefully. I did not have time to get very far into it ... yet, but I will! And I think the sooner the better because if I don't at least chemically neutralize the urine. It will progressively corrode the gun until I do. What I did find out today is that the parts inside the receiver still look operational. I have gotten most of the gun stripped down and I soaked those parts in a solution of 3% cleaning vinegar. I soaked these parts for 1/2 hour than scrubbed them with brush with Dawn dish detergent and Lysol then dropped them in boiling water with Lysol and cleaning enzymes. Then rinsed them with clean water. Blew them dry with compressed air. Than greased them with gun grease. I realize this cleaning process is doing nothing for the refinishing process. But I know that rat urine is VERY DANGEROUS and needs to be completely eliminated before anything else can be done. I will continue stripping and cleaning tomorrow. But as EdStainless stated. Its "probably unsaveble". As far as it looks currently. I think I have to agree. But I think his suggestion of the electrolytic process might be the way to go with this amount of corrosion. But it might not be economically feasible. It might be more advantageous to take the loss and take the suggestion that SwinnyGG said and turn in into my insurance company and purchase another 336. After all the scope is still ok. I could put it on another brand new 336! I will find out tomorrow. And I will send an update. Again, THANK YOU ALL!!!

 

[TugboatEng]

You can get phosphoric acid at your hardware store. It's usually sold as concrete etcher.

Same product different labels.

Anyways, it's a bit simpler than the electrolysis method. Make sure you neutralize to prevent flash rust.

 

[3DDave]

I suggest Shawn Woods on YouTube for dealing with rodents.

 

[ricckk]

Well here is my update... Thank you 3DDave for your suggestion about Shawn Woods. I will watch his video after i'm done writing this update. Well, I was able to make time today to finish stripping down my 336. You guys are correct. The lever and the trigger are no good. They are both past any repair. And as far as the receiver and the corroded part of the barrel. I decided to take TugboatEng's suggestion and I saturated the receiver and the damaged part of the barrel with phosphoric acid. I realize its kind of overkill but I am going to let these part sit over night and see what they look like in the morning. I hate to be a pessimist. BETTER SAFE THAN REALLY SORRY! ( Anything involving firearms is ALWAYS safety first and foremost!). But I am 85% convinced there is no hope for this rifle. By the time I remove enough material to get past all of the pitting and corrosion. I believe the receiver will not be thick enough to take the chamber pressure of the cartridge being fired. And I know me. No matter what I would have done to the rifle to have it repaired. (If that is even possible). I would never again be able to trust firing this rifle. I would ALWAYS be worried about the receiver exploding in my face. And I am sure a .30-30 Win. cartridge can do some real damage! Its simply not worth it. I have come to the conclusion . I am just going to turn it in to my insurance company. And buy a new one. One more thing... I AM going to catch that RAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Guest102023]

Would be great if you posted a photo of the dead rat

"If you don't have time to do the job right the first time, when are you going to find time to repair it?"

 

[ricckk]

I will post a photo of that DEAD RAT when I catch him!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[LittleInch]

Do the number of ! equal the number of shots you've already let off at the said animal?? And missed.

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.

 

[ricckk]

I DON'T miss

 

[Guest102023]

Bullets are another well known degradation mechanism…

"If you don't have time to do the job right the first time, when are you going to find time to repair it?"

 

[ricckk]

brimstoner, I am not sure what you meant in your last post. ?????? But I never said I was going to shoot that rat anyway. I simply stated, "I AM going to catch that RAT" !! So, tell me, why are bullets a degradation mechanism"?

 

[Guest102023]

I meant bullets are a degradation mechanism for rodents.
I was responding to littleinch, not intending to incite a disproportionately violent response to your uninvited house guest. However you do it, I hope you are able to deal with the varmint.

"If you don't have time to do the job right the first time, when are you going to find time to repair it?"

 

[ricckk]

If you are referring to the corrosion inside of a gun barrel caused by firing a bullet or bullets. Is'ent that why manufacturer's recommendations tell us to clean each firearm after each use? To prevent corrosion? (Or at least slow it down) And even if not. It sure would take A LOT of bullets fired to create the kind of corrosion that rat urine caused! In that amount of time. That rifle sat in storage LESS THAN 3 MONTHS!! Actually, I took it out of storage to give it a storage grease treatment. Like I do about every 3 months or so. When I stored it. It was in pristine condition. I can't imagine bullet corrosion working that fast ! I mean if we are going to get down to technicalities. Steel in any average environment is susceptible to its own degradation mechanisms.

 

[ricckk]

Brimstoner, please understand I was not trying to be a wise guy or anything of that sort. I am ALWAYS interested in what Engineers have to say! I guess I just wanted you to elaborate. I apologize! I should have just said that.