Eng-Tips is the largest engineering community on the Internet

Intelligent Work Forums for Engineering Professionals

Recommendations for 3D printer 4

Status
Not open for further replies.

Josef_G

Mechanical
Dec 7, 2019
18
0
0
IL
Hello all,
I'm looking for recommendations for a 3D printer based on the following criteria:
- The printed parts are to be used in a medical device prototype.
- The printed parts will be used in pre-clinical trials, so any important regulatory issues such as material used could be meaningful.
- The general tolerance level I'm looking for is up to +-0.1 mm.
- Budget - up to 2,500 USD, obviously no need to use the entire budget.
- Flexibility regarding materials used would be great.
- Doesn't need to have a big work volume.

Any recommendations or suggestions would be appreciated!
 
Replies continue below

Recommended for you

Josef, You should also look at product specs, namely nozzle diameter, and as mentioned, material choice, to get what you're looking for. Some of the units cited here may be better suited for hobbyists, and others are more geared towards professional use. I think the adage "You get what you pay for" applies here.
Good luck...
 
It was never clear if the machine was for work or home. Assuming work since this is a professional forum. Yes the prices are thousands instead of hundreds but any time saved with tweaking or deadline missed is worth it.

I have supper happy with a Zortrax we bought 3 years ago. It is plug and play. The the factory filaments it just works. Only needs tuning for after market filaments.


I would recommend a dual extruder printer. That way you do not have to mess with removing supports. I am looking at this as an upgrade. I can not decide between the Zortax M300 Dual and the Makerbot Method. Does anyone have experience with the Method? They just added the option for aftermarket filaments.
 
Thanks everyone for your input.
We've settled in the meantime for a Prusa SL1, in the future we will likely get the Form 3.

Please feel free to continue to add your input!
 
I had no intention of buying a 3D printer, but I ran across this thread a while back. My first experience was with SLA in the 90's and I found it fascinating. Anyway, since the Prusa MK3S was mentioned a few times, I looked into it and decided to get one. It is an amazing machine for the cost. Thanks to everyone who recommended Prusa printers in this thread.
 
Ahh, that's great to hear ESPcomp!

Glad it's working for you.

I'm currently working to get my MM3 onto Octoprint hooked to a VPN so I can check it from home to make sure my 10 hour prints aren't "printing spaghetti" as they call it. I just had my office internet connection upped from the disgraceful AT&T crap web service 1.5Mbs down 0.3Mb/s up (all they could offer) to another company 66Mb/s up so I can stream HD video to home or phone.

Keith Cress
kcress -
 
I see that this thread is still being used, so I'd like to add my two cents about our final choice (Prusa SL1).
Honestly, my hopes were much higher than what the SL1 could provide. I couldn't get a better accuracy than +-0.2mm, and worst of all, it started acting up less than 2 months of use. Turns out the LCD screen lasts for a few hundred hours and needs to be replaced, otherwise it burns out and prints models full of holes. At ~$80 a pop for a new screen, it seems that this possibly wasn't the best value for money we could have ordered.
On the plus side, we used it A LOT in its first month, so the screen burning out isn't all that surprising. I didn't have any failed prints other than due to the screen problem and using it was very plug-and-play.

Thanks everyone for the input, you're welcome to keep it coming!
 
Josef, that is unfortunate. I am not familiar with their SLA machine and I believe the FDM (MK3/MK3S) is their major product. Their forum posts are 70:1 (MK3:SL1), so maybe SLA is not their specialty?

I think my expectations were low. When I sent out for SLA prints in the 90s, it was very expensive and we were very lucky to have access to these machines. So having a home 3D printer is already amazing to me. The fact that the MK3S can build functional parts with PLA/PETG (and other materials) extends this (SLA parts are not very functional because they are brittle). I also found the accuracy to be better than expected and I was able to print a functional screw and nut with threads (at 0.325" diameter). While I have been following FDM for a while, I wasn't sure if they were ready for prime time. I had to get up to speed with some aspects, but I found the entire process to be great (assembly, quality, customer support, Slicer software, material price). And you get all of that for the cost of what a small amount of SLA parts would have cost in the 90s.

It may come down to perspective. I was in awe of 3D printers and solid modeling software when I first used them, but it was reserved for large companies with deep pockets. You now have great options for both software and printers at very affordable prices.
 
Josef_G; !!? I recommended the FDM not the SLA.

Prusa is a first rate FDM company. Easily the largest in that arena and one of the most innovative. Their SLA is what it is... The biggest thing in their SLA is the washing/curing station. It makes the SLA process vaguely less detestable.

Thanks for your after-use report! Another reason for me to avoid SLA.

Keith Cress
kcress -
 
I think he wanted the highest accuracy and assumed Prusa SLA was as good as Prusa FDM. But from what I can see, Prusa specializes in FDM and as you mentioned their SLA "is what it is". The SL1 still seems like a pretty good value (even considering the screen issue).

On the MK3S, you can adjust the screen brightness. It has bright and dim modes and brightness settings for each. Does the SL1 have that? Maybe setting the dim mode down low would prevent it from burning out so quickly? They also have a great online chat support system. And they don't have a warranty for such things?
 
comp! You're confused, like I was, since I was always thinking FDM.

The screen Josef_G is referring to is the LCD screen that pixel by pixel allows the light up through the SLA goo to expose it for the primary curing. If those pixels crap-out then you get no curing at that point causing the holes he speakth of.

Keith Cress
kcress -
 
Thanks makes sense now. I am not sure of the typical life of the LCD screen when compared to other manufacturers, but that should probably be a factor when considering SLA. I have not ventured into SLA because the parts are brittle and I don't want to mess with liquids (which are also relatively expensive). It seems the critical question is the required accuracy. If you don't need the highest accuracy, FDM seems like the better option (accuracy is still "good"). But if you require higher accuracy than FDM offers, then you should probably be prepared to address the downsides of SLA (material cost, post curing, liquids, brittle parts, UV sensitive, maintenance cost, etc.). It is quite a bit different than FDM.
 
Formlabs is a better choice for a desktop SLA. The burned LCDs are a common problem with the hoby SLA printers.

The modern SLA prints at nothing like the ones from the turn of the century. They are tough enough for usable parts. Formlabs even has a great elastomer resin.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top