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Recommendations on a Megger 5

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itsmoked

Electrical
Feb 18, 2005
19,114
I'm looking for a megger. I don't want to spend twelve hundred bucks on some overpriced gold plated unit. I need a megger about twice a year so I can't justify a lot of expense.

There are the crank ones and the battery ones. I can see an advantage to a crank one in that six, eight, or ten batteries aren't rotting away in the unit between uses but I wouldn't want to give away useful features just to loose the batteries.

I need the megger for testing servo motor connectors, triac and SCR insulation, and motors.

Do I need 150V, 250V, 500V, 750V, 1000V ranges? Or at least which?

Anything else you can recommend on the subject?

Keith Cress
kcress -
 
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What are you testing (what voltages?)

How do you want to clamp the test leads to the circuits? (If you are a single person testing, you want clamp-on leads that won't pop-off)

What output? analog, digital, single purpose or multi-gage?
 
The AEMC Model 1026 is a economically priced megger used in large, and smaller shops.
It's very easy to use, comes in a soft carrying case with sharp tips/alligator clips,
and has additional features not found on a traditional hand wound instrument.
Its battery life is quite long, and measures up to 4K meg.

John
 
The crank type meters maxed out at around 100 meg-Ohms to 500 meg-Ohms. I believe that that was the internal resistance of the megger.
The new electronic meters I have used read up to about 7 gig-Ohms. Some go much higher.
I used and loved an Amprobe hand cranked megger for some years. It had 250 Volts, 500 Volts, 1000 Volts and a 6 volt low Ohms scale.
If I had to buy a new megger I would probably go with an electronic megger with a range of test voltages.
Even though I miss the old crank meter.
Check E-Bay

Bill
--------------------
"Why not the best?"
Jimmy Carter
 
racookpe1978 said:
What are you testing (what voltages?)

How do you want to clamp the test leads to the circuits? (If you are a single person testing, you want clamp-on leads that won't pop-off)

What output? analog, digital, single purpose or multi-gage?

I thought I listed what I need to check... ?
Thanks for the clip-on tip. Good point. I'm open to either single or multi-gage. Got a model(s) I should check out?

John said:
The AEMC Model 1026 is a economically priced megger used in large, and smaller shops.
It's very easy to use, comes in a soft carrying case with sharp tips/alligator clips,
and has additional features not found on a traditional hand wound instrument.
Its battery life is quite long, and measures up to 4K meg.
That AMEC looks pretty straight forward and to the point! Reasonable price too! I'm looking closely at it. Thanks.

Bill said:
The crank type meters maxed out at around 100 meg-Ohms to 500 meg-Ohms. I believe that that was the internal resistance of the megger.
The new electronic meters I have used read up to about 7 gig-Ohms. Some go much higher.
I used and loved an Amprobe hand cranked megger for some years. It had 250 Volts, 500 Volts, 1000 Volts and a 6 volt low Ohms scale.
If I had to buy a new megger I would probably go with an electronic megger with a range of test voltages.
Even though I miss the old crank meter.
Check E-Bay

I didn't' realize the hand crank-ers were a little ohm-limited.. Thanks for pointing that out.
Bill, is there any advantage to multi gig-ohm readings? I'm with you on the electronic angle.




Keith Cress
kcress -
 
Over this side of the water I would look for 250V / 500V / 1000V test voltages.

When you are in the G[Ω] range the condition of the test leads becomes important. Alcohol wipes are a worthwhile addition to your toolbag so you can clean the leads if you are chasing very high readings. Normally that is only needed on MV and HV cables, so perhaps not a problem for you.
 
That's funny Scotty. Just today (as part of deciding I need a megger) I broke out a DMM that has a 400M range and watched as it didn't eventually zero. I wiped my finger across the face of the meter between the two lead holes and it immediately dropped to zero. Sheesh.
I will most certainly include some alcohol wipes in my kit. Thanks for that pointer.
I agree those three ranges are probably the most important to my needs.


Keith Cress
kcress -
 
Does anybody ever use AC meggers verses these predominately DC meggers? I can see them showing capacitive leakages that could be useful to know about..?

Keith Cress
kcress -
 
Keith,

We had a similar experience testing a brand new 11,000V 3-core XLPE feeder cable with a 5kV Megger and the readings were all over the place. The cable had passed the pressure test with negligible leakage current but the insulation resistance readings - which should have been well over 10 G[Ω] - weren't repeatable or stable. Turned out to be a light film of oily dirt from the switch house floor on the leads. Once they were thoroughly cleaned we were back normality. The jointers who had terminated the cable were really surprised at the source of the problem, and more than a little relieved because a lot of accusing fingers were being pointed at them.
 
I have a Fluke 1587 in my travel kit, took it around the world a few times. Rugged and reliable. Probably more than you want to spend but if you use is as a DMM the likelihood of it working when you need to use it as a megger is pretty good.

I also have a Megger 230425 4kV AC/5kV DC, I find useful if you need an AC type test. picked mine up used for $1000USD


Mike L.
 
Thanks Chuck. That looks like a fabulous unit. If I needed a DMM, (I have 4 effective ones now), I'd probably reach for that baby. But the price is pretty steep for me to swallow/justify, $650+. Wish I could find a used one.. :)

Keith Cress
kcress -
 
Hi Keith
If you're only using it a couple of times or so a year, why not rent one? Then you can get a good one.
At least it is easier to amortise into your customer invoice with a fixed rental cost, than trying to spread over three years or so.
 
Hi yah Mike. If I had to get on a plane with a meter to go work on 'power' stuff often, like perhaps Gunnar, I'd definitely get a 1587. It would be that much less to carry.

ozmosis; Ack! No way.. Example: I can be minding my own business when I get called to a used machinery place because they just got in a lathe, or a mill, or crazy stuff like a pallet of 'automated drills', and they want me to check one out that blows it's breaker. Could be anything, but it would be nice to be able to megger the motor out. Leasing would be onerous in this example and probably no one would even talk to me for less than $100 about leasing anything and you can get new meggers for $50.

Like this one that also is CAT II 600V and does 1000VDC, 750VAC, OHMs, continuity, and is a well thought out small package all in a single self-hard case.

0k1v3q810jtkltmvzuud.jpg




Keith Cress
kcress -
 
Gidday Keith, I have a megger similar to that one, its only fault is that it indicates about 25 k when I short the leads together. So I don't know whether there is a short or a significant leakage.
My recommendation for a utility "megger" would be the KYORITSU 3132A. This is a basic instrument, non digital, but is used by Electricians everywhere.
Ray.
 
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