Can anyone recommend a standard 3-prong 120v outlet that I can trust to last many years connecting important things to household current? I'll spare the long story, but suffice to say that I am tired of the shoddy electrical outlets used in contemporary construction, and it is really disappointing to check on my chest freezer multiple times each day, because the outlet is garbage.
Tek-Tips is the largest IT community on the Internet today!
Members share and learn making Tek-Tips Forums the best source of peer-reviewed technical information on the Internet!
-
Congratulations TugboatEng on being selected by the Eng-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!
reliable 120v electrical outlet?
- Thread starter acfreema
- Start date
EdStainless
Materials
Even at the big box stores you can find 20A Hubble (or other big name such as Eaton) outlets that are a real step up from 'builder quality'.
And please make sure that you terminate the wires correctly.
No push in, correct strip length, correct wrap direction.
Instead of $1-2 these will be $8-15 each.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
And please make sure that you terminate the wires correctly.
No push in, correct strip length, correct wrap direction.
Instead of $1-2 these will be $8-15 each.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you for making me take a second look at the 20A outlets. I wasn't sure they would be worth the extra cost, but I will get a few on my way home.
When wiring in new outlets, I try to use crimped-on fork connectors. As to not using the push in garbage... I can't understand how unions allow dangerous things like that to be used. There isn't even a tool for taking out those wires without risking a screwdriver through the hand.
When wiring in new outlets, I try to use crimped-on fork connectors. As to not using the push in garbage... I can't understand how unions allow dangerous things like that to be used. There isn't even a tool for taking out those wires without risking a screwdriver through the hand.
resqcapt19
Electrical
Within the same product line from the same manufacturer, there are no internal differences between 15 and 20 amp receptacles. The only difference is the slots on the receptacle face. If you want the very best, you buy hospital grade receptacles. They are more robust and retain the required contact pressure between the plug blades and the receptacle socket much better.
As far as using fork terminals, it is a common practice, but in most cases a violation of 110.3(B)in the National Electrical Code. The UL Guide information for Receptacles and Attachment Plugs for Receptacles (RTRT) says:
"Terminals of a receptacle are permitted for use with certified field-installed crimped-on wire connectors or an assembly, if so identified by the manufacturer."
There is only one line of Hubbell that is so identified. That being said, if I had to terminate a stranded conductor on a wiring device, I would use a crimp fork terminal.
As far as using fork terminals, it is a common practice, but in most cases a violation of 110.3(B)in the National Electrical Code. The UL Guide information for Receptacles and Attachment Plugs for Receptacles (RTRT) says:
"Terminals of a receptacle are permitted for use with certified field-installed crimped-on wire connectors or an assembly, if so identified by the manufacturer."
There is only one line of Hubbell that is so identified. That being said, if I had to terminate a stranded conductor on a wiring device, I would use a crimp fork terminal.
EdStainless
Materials
I'll second the 'hospital' outlets.
Otherwise it is difficult to tell if the internals are different or not.
If your wire is solid then strip and wrap the screw like you are supposed to.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
Otherwise it is difficult to tell if the internals are different or not.
If your wire is solid then strip and wrap the screw like you are supposed to.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, consulting work welcomed
bacon4life
Electrical
Hospital grade outlets as well as some commercial grade outlets require very significant force to insert and withdraw the blades. I have a couple commercial grade outlets in my house, and plugs are so hard to insert that it feels like I tried to insert a polarized plug the wrong way.
If someone is in the bad habit of unplugging cords by pulling on the cord rather than the pulling on the plug, using hospital grade outlets can end up with damage to cords.
If someone is in the bad habit of unplugging cords by pulling on the cord rather than the pulling on the plug, using hospital grade outlets can end up with damage to cords.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Question
- Locked
- Question