Continue to Site

Eng-Tips is the largest engineering community on the Internet

Intelligent Work Forums for Engineering Professionals

  • Congratulations KootK on being selected by the Eng-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!

Ridge Packing

Status
Not open for further replies.

XR250

Structural
Jan 30, 2013
5,293
I am designing a garage for a customer with a 46 ft. span structural ridge. Gonna use a W24x76. Looks like it will take a small forest to pack this thing out with 2x12’s for the rafter attachment (Option 1). Was also thinking about bolting a vertical 4x6 to the web at each rafter location instead of using continuous packing and using a hanger. (Option 2).
Seems option 2 would also be more amenable for sheetrocking

What are y’all’s thoughts? Any better ideas out there?
RIDGE_BLOCKING_aggvut.png
 
Replies continue below

Recommended for you

Weld angles to the inside of each flange section and bolt a single 2x12 to the angle with TEKS screws

RidgeBeam_an3s57.jpg
 
Ron,

I like that idea. It is a 24" deep beam, however. I guess I could go with a 24" LVL in lieu of your 2x12. The 4x6 idea seem cheaper and easier though. Do you have any concerns about it?
 
4x6 idea is good. You're right....quick and easy, therefore cheaper. Will need to countersink the head side and the nut side of the thru-bolts to prevent interference with rafters

 
Shotzie beat me to it. I'd vote for the simpson hangers, but options 1 & 2 would work as well. Due to the large difference in depths of steel beam vs. rafter, I would hesitate a bit to attach a rafter to a an "un-backed" member that spans from top to bottom flange - while we'd be the carpenter's friend, I think there's a potential for cross-grain bending/tension there when rafters inevitably move over the life of the building.
 
Forgot about top flange hangers. The contractor has a welder on staff so it would be easy.
I don't really like the idea of rafters simply supported by hanging hangers without a backing, however.
They would also have to still bolt some blocking in to wrap the beam with sheetrock.
I'll run all these ideas by the contractor and get his feedback.

Thanks.
 
W24x76 has a good size flange.
You could go with the top flange hangers either welded or with a nailer on top of the beam. For the flange infill you could run 2x4 plates top and bottom and paf them to the flange then just infill with 2x4 studs at whatever spacing you need for finish attachment. For the hanger backup have them turn the 2x4 so the long edges backs up the hangers.

Capture_lutngs.png


My Personal Open Source Structural Applications:

Open Source Structural GitHub Group:
 
XR250:
Punch two rows of holes in the 24WF web, 2.5” below the top flg. and 2.5” above the bot. flg., for a 2x10 or 12 at the top and a 2x6 at the bot. running full length. Then, pack the remainder out with 2- 2x10’s or 2- 2x12’s standing vert. btwn. the two flgs. as a support for a top flg. supported, sloped bot. flg. jst. hangers. This also allows for nailing of sht. rck. around each jst. Use the WF web holes as a drilling guide for the holes in the cont. longitudinal 2x12’s and 2x6’s. Do you have a vented ridge, or what? The 9” flg. width is a kinda large span for the roof sheathing and its nailing.
 
It IS an unvented roof.
My 4x6 idea is similar.
Your idea gives more edge distance for the hanger nails and more flexibility to place the blocks where needed. So, yeah, I like yours better.

Thanks
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Part and Inventory Search

Sponsor