Screws for joist sistering

[JStructsteel]

I will be doing some joist sistering for a friend this weekend to help strengthen her floor.

Anyone ever specify SPAX screws? I have many #14x3" screws, was going to use them along with construction adhesive to reinforce the floor.

Any issues with SPAX screws?

 

[oldestguy]

Once you have some experience with power nailers you won't go for screws. In addition with plenty of ring shanked nails that go in in a hurry, you will leave screws in the box. That added hint of jacking up the existing is a good idea.

 

[Compositepro]

With a power nailer it is possible to nail two boards together while leaving a quarter-inch gap between the two. It shoots nails through wood so fast that the boards do not have time to move.

 

[dik]

I use LePage Loctite PL Premium

Josh Plum: Use it for that, too.

 

[Ron]

Currently doing a relatively large sistering project repair. Am using thru-bolts for all attachment.

 

[XR250]

Is there any readily available glue out there that actually has design values we can use?
I specify yellow glue or Poly subfloor adhesive sometimes on repairs but I never count on it for anything even though it likely is stronger than the mechanical connection.

 

[dik]

xr250:

http://www.lepage.ca/content/dam/ua...L-Construction-Adhesive/LePage PL Premium.pdf

I typically use 100 psi (service)... 150 psi (limit).

[Added]: I would not use the cross linked PVA adhesive (yellow glue) for structural connections; it's OK for furnature... if gluing joists together, I'd use the PL Premium... it's a much better adhesive. Used to build furnature way back and still have a couple of bags of hide glue... doesn't interfere with finishes, or, stains. Off topic a bit: My late brother used the PVA for veneering... You can apply a thin coat, like contact cement, and let it dry... you can fit the veneers together (particularly for patterns) and iron them in place using a regular clothes iron.

Dik

 

[EdStainless]

And if you use glue use a notched trowel so that you can control the thickness.
Too much is worse than not enough.
I helped do one of these jobs years ago. The old guys that were doing it covered all of the bases.
They jacked the old joists back into position, made sure that the bottom edges were flush (the new were not as deep as the old), used ring shank nails, and added solid blocking between joists.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
P.E. Metallurgy, Plymouth Tube

 

[dik]

EdStainless... a notched trowel is essential if you are using glue for a 'serious' application. Often I just 'glue' a couple of things together. It's not often that I actually have a situation where the adhesive strength is essential. If you are actually having to transfer load from an existing member and you are using nails/screws/bolts you will require a heck of a lot of fasteners because the load capacity of fasteners in wood is so low.

Dik

 

[XR250]

I typically use 100 psi (service)... 150 psi (limit).

My problem with using glues for structural applications is the lack of inpsectibility and quality control in the field.
Does code actually allow it? !00 PSI is pretty f'n strong, however.

 

[oldestguy]

OG finally. A nail gun and ring shank nails goes fast. If your time means anything, this is the way to go and DIK once you have done it with a nail gun you will know what I mean.

 

[dik]

OG.. I've used nail guns, but, adhesives have a lot of grip for the area.

Dik