Small electric actuated valves

[Kaplin]

I'm looking for a 1 1/2" threaded valve with a spring return electric linear actuator. Honeywell makes one (ML7425), but the open time is 90 seconds and that is too long for my requirements.

Does anyone know of other makers of small electric actuated valves?

 

[hacksaw]

depends somewhat on your application but you might try maxon

 

[1969grad]

Try Atomatic (spelling??) who is now owned by Circle Seal if you are interested in a solenoid type valve. I have used them in gas service for venting fuel gas lines.

Is the Honeywell valve the old Barber-Coleman valve? You might want to reserch valves used in the HVAC industry for liquid (heating and cooling) service.

 

[Kaplin]

The valve is to be used on a small water filtration plant. There is currently a solenoid valve installed, however it seems to get stuck (either it doesn't open when called on, or opens half way). This seems to occur approximatly 5% of the time.

I'm looking for a valve with a greater torque.

 

[rmw]

Try

http://www.jordancontrols.com

They can actuate the valve of your choice, or choose a valve for your application. Their range of spring return electrics is not extensive, but it sounds like what they have to offer is in the range you are looking for.

rmw

 

[jpyeck]

Kaplin,

Belimo (

http://www.belimo.com)

has spring return electrical actuators on ball valves up to 2". Spring Return time is < 60 sec. and with MFT programming the opening time can be 75 sec.

 

[jsummerfield]

If air is available, my preference is to use a solenoid operated valve to pilot a pneumatic valve. For smaller tubing sized valves I prefer Whitey (Crawford/Swageloc) have lots of small valves with diaphragm actuators. Use a Bettis or equal valve on your line class ball valves for sizes over one-inch. Buy through a valve automation house to package the valve if appropriate.

John

 

[scalleke]

All good posts but.....

The valve is getting stuck after a time of operation this seems to indicate to me that there is some dirt depositing in the valve, maybe even scale formation on the ball.

Higher torque might solve these problems but might also not.

Try determining the root cause of the problem rather than throwing extra torque at it.

If you have no option and need to go for the higher torque this means you will possibly be breaking or shearing off deposits and they might get entrained between the ball and seats. Will the seats be able to take that?

You could also go to a harder seat material to solve a potential debris obstruction problem as harder seats have a tendency to scrape the ball. PEEK would be an option for this.

Best regards.

Scalleke