Continue to Site

Eng-Tips is the largest engineering community on the Internet

Intelligent Work Forums for Engineering Professionals

  • Congratulations KootK on being selected by the Eng-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!

Solid 1" Rivet Installation

Status
Not open for further replies.

bduff

Mechanical
Nov 1, 2012
17
I am in need of some assistance on where to find a rivet tool, press, or hammer that is capable of finishing 1" solid steel countersunk head rivets. The tail will also be countersunk as I have no clearance for any protruding material on either side. These are 1" rivets with a finish length of 1.6875". Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!!!
 
Replies continue below

Recommended for you

How close to an edge will these be? There are a number of firms that make large cold squeeze riveters for the railroad marketplace. These have a limited throat depth though.
 
During rivet installation, I will have a substantial amount of clearance on both sides. Any excess material on the tail end that protrudes will be ground flush with the edge. Once installed in its final resting place, clearance will be limited and that's the reason for choosing countersunk heads on both sides. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for your response!!
 
One tool that can be modified to squeeze large rivets is a large diameter hydraulic hole punch .
Remove the lower die and install a solid plate. I do not know what your application is, however some years ago I installed a few 1" dia round head steel rivets by using a " Bridge buster " air hammer with a custom made Rivet set, then heating the rivet cherry red with an oxy- acetylene torch.
B.E.


You are judged not by what you know, but by what you can do.
 
Take a look in the Machinery Handbook.
There is a table for "Hold-On"; Dolly Bar and Rivet Sets dimensions.
If you can't find an old rivet gun you may be able to modify a Hilti hammer drill and bit.
 
I restored a press that will do your work. Most web and flange punches don't have the throat clearance to drive anything over an inch or two in length. That diameter and head style with pneumatic tools will fail too. You really need to hit them hard. If scaling is a concern I would drive them warm ~under 1000 F
 
Its been more than 50 years since they last riveted a structure in my neck of the woods. Most of that equipment is long gone. You might be able to find an rivet gun around, but finding someone that knows how to drive them might be a challenge.

Best regards - Al
 
Why not use hot rivets so all you need is a small forge and big hammer?
 
Careful with the application of heat and that some older steels were hot short due to higher amounts of sulphur.

Dik
 
An explanation of the application would help the exchange some.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Part and Inventory Search

Sponsor