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Spring rates, weight distribution and other things

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yoshimitsuspeed

Automotive
Jan 5, 2011
191
I have spent most of my mental resources over the past decade focusing on how to get power out of motors. I am realizing that not only has my suspension knowledge not grown, I have actually forgotten a lot of what I did know.
I would love suggestions on suspension tuning books. Especially anything that focusses on Macpherson strut style suspension since it is used on most of the cars that I am involved with.
I do have Tune to Win and have been putting it off for far too long. I'll at least crack open the spring rates section tonight and see how far I get.

I would really like to get some input from the engineering side though on a thread that has had a major influence on the MR2 community.

I think everyone should be able to view this thread. If not I will try to copy and past key points.
This thread has a lot of good information and I believe much of it to be true. However it has resulted in many people running spring rates that heavily oppose weight distribution.
As xhead discusses in post #5 he uses the inverse of the weight distribution to choose his wheel rates.
Now the logic for doing so does make some sense in that running a stiffer rate at the lighter end should theoretically help balance out the car however it doesn't seem like it's as simple as that.

Next in post #7 he says that FWD cars run very stiff rates and bars in back and softer up front. Therefore a car with more weight bias in rear should do the opposite. I don't follow FF cars enough to know but I didn't realize this was the case. If they do run stiffer rates I would assume it would be because the overall suspension would need to account for cargo and people. Or perhaps he is talking about more racing oriented FF cars? Either way does a car with 60f/40r weight distribution running more spring in the rear automatically mean that a car with 40f/60r should do the opposite? I know there are a lot of other things to consider beside which end wants to break loose first.

In post #18 he starts to address some of these other concerns such as ride frequency, Center of suspension and center of gravity. However he seems to dismiss them as nearly irrelevant for performance and only really related to comfort. One thing that I know is very far off about his calculations is that he says the CG is near the rear axle. Just from jacking my car up many times I can tell you that the CG is much further forward than that.
Then in post #31 talks about how his builds do not use swaybars and that he does everything with spring rates. Now this leads to my real questions although I would love input on everything.

First question is if running such higher front rates to balance the car will really benefit the handling more than losses you might see by ignoring ride frequency and center of suspension?

Second question and this one really bothers me. He says that he does not run swaybars because they decrease mechanical grip and instead uses spring rates because that doesn't reduce mechanical grip. Yet earlier he discusses using spring rates to balance the understeer/oversteer tendencies of the car. So in one post he is saying he uses spring rates to change the balance of mechanical grip then in another post says he doesn't like sway bars because they reduce mechanical grip.
A given spring rate will have a given effect on mechanical grip correct?
He does at one point suggest that the downside is that the decrease in mechanical grip is not linear and that may be what causes the understeering issues but I am having a hard time understanding why.

"A swaybar transfers load from the inside tire to the outside tire and thus reduce mechanical grip as they add spring rate."
I don't believe this is technically true. At least no more true than a spring that is transferring that load through the chassis. Perhaps this is where I'm confused.

Now I can see his point about changing traction conditions changing the rate with a sway bar since the amount of roll will change before you reach the limit of traction. However I can't help but wonder how much. He is trying to keep roll under 1.5 degrees. At the shocks that is about 36mm or 1.4" difference in travel from left to right. Now if you compared racing slicks on perfect pavement and 1.5 degrees of roll to say black ice and .2 degrees of roll it is true that the sway bar will have increased the spring rate notably more on the high traction surface but if you compare reasonable traction like he is talking about like even in rain the G force is still going to be pretty substantial and the body roll shouldn't be that much less than before. So maybe it's 60% as much body roll. That would be .9 deg and at the shocks 22mm or .866 in from left to right. 36-22=14mm or .55" from left to right means a 200 lb/in sway bar would be increasing the spring rate by 110lb/in. I guess this ties into his statement above but you aren't transferring load between the inside and the outside. If you had a front swaybar and no rear you would be transfering load from the back tires to the front tires making it more likely to understeer.
On the other hand if you had a 200 lb/in rear bar as well it would maintain the balance plus or minus the variation in body roll and whatnot right?

So from an engineering standpoint what are peoples thoughts on a swaybarless setup with rates inverted front to rear?
What are peoples thoughts on the explanation and logic behind the setup?
Obviously this setup has worked very well for some very competitve racers but now I see a lot of people using this setup for all kinds of cars including daily drivers. While I could see it having it's place and if you find success with it then all the power to you but I feel like there are also some gaps in the theory and would like to understand if I am right and if so better understand what those gaps are.

Sorry for the incoherent rambling. It's hard to work through this stuff in your head and try to ask questions all at the same time.
 
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@ yoshi

just to clarify some things, which you may have gotten in the wrong context.
yes, I agree, that structural stiffness will change over time, due to a couple of reasons, the worst effect would be down to corrosion ( which may is a contributor to your front firewall/master cylinder example [leaking MC or spilled fluid while bleeding/refilling/changing the MC, will/can do some damage over time] - also keep in mind, that you will have to account for the pedal ratio too - 0.2mm at the MC is a bit more at the pedal).
But when I said, that some enthusiasts 20-30 years down the road, may find it difficult to double their spring and bar rates without considering the supporting structure, I just wanted to highlight the fact, that todays cars, carry very seldom any "excess" support structure. Due to the now widespread use of CAD/CAE and ever tighther cost constrains, things get opimized (read minimized) to the point, where they will (just) do their job, for a predefined life-cycle, but not much more. So alterning the loadcase by 50-100% aand feeding the load via different paths (changing some angles etc.) will/can cause some "unexpected" results - IMHO.

But to come back to the initial topic briefly.
I'm not disputing xheads finding for the car in question so much. You could see what he did rather pragmatic - KISS
If you don't use ARB's, you don't have to worry about them binding up / changing the motion ratio etc. - makes life simple & more predictable (which is something he noticed, sees as a positive - no arguments against this)
If you run quite stiff(ish) suspension, you have less effects from things like roll/bump steer and camber change to worry about ---> "every suspension will work, if you don't let it"
So, in a roundabout way, it's a way to make "life" simple, and take a lot of possible "hassles" out of the equation - from a pragmatic, hands on club racer/auto x'er point of view, that's not the most "silly route" to take - and it worked for him, so all good.

What I feel is a bit lacking/missing in his explainations are attempt's to explain "why" he feels that a ARB setup is inferior, not just saying that "it never worked for me". While I have no trouble seeing/understanding what he has "expirienced", I'm not sure he fully understands "why" this is/was the case, and how he could have avoided it.
So, while I think, that his approach is "sensible" and easy to understand from a clubracer/auto X'er point of view, I would like to think, that you could make a ARB setup work "just as good", it may be not as easy to do.

One thing, you may want to mind a little bit about, and which I think/feel causes "part of the trouble" (the unpredictability), is the angle between the ARB ends/blades and the droplinks (the connection rod between the ARB and the strut).
How do people setup their ARB ends/arms/blades w.r.t the stock position &/or the ground? (level to the ground ?)
Especially, if they lower their cars - do they tend to shorten the drop-link as well? If yes - how much?
Mind about, what happens to the angle between the drop-link and the ARB-arm/blade when the car bounces or pitches ( what happens if you turn-in under brakes, roll off the brakes at the apex and go back onto the throttle afterwards ). How does the motion of the ARB arms/blades and the angle between the drop-link and the arm affect your "motion ratio" between the ARB and the wheel?
Maybe it's "bad", maybe it "surprises you" (because you didn't have thought about it much), but maybe if you do, and can "get your head around it", it can be used to "tune" the behaviour to your advantage.

Now, on the front axle, where your strut also rotates while steering (the drop-link bracket on the strut steers as well), you may end up with even more "effects" --> angle changes a function of ride-height & possible steering angle. Do people (clubracers/auto X'ers) take this into account, when changing the inclination angle of their struts? (they may do it mainly to gain camber/caster &/or KPI/Scrub radius). Xheads comment, that "the steering is much ligther" since he moved away from ARB's seems to indicate, that there could be some ARB twisting while steering going on.
Again, this may "surprises" you, but then again if taken into account, you could use this effect either to your advantage (was quite popular on some FWD race cars), or you can spend time and effort to minimize any effect, by chosing the adequate position of your drop-link bracket on the strut. (or try to maintain the stock position, while changing other aspects of the strut position (like caster angle))
This isn't trivial, because it's a full 3D problem, and you would need to consider the position w.r.t. ride height / roll angle / steering angle left vs. right etc. - it would either requiere some modeling and analysis in a 3D software, or some time & effort to measure and "try & error" positioning.
It's difficult to "just eyeball it".

Take a look at this photo in order to see what I mean:
Mind about how the angle/position changes while the suspension moves through it's stroke range, what effect would this have on "wheel rate"?
dscn2502.jpg
 
Progressive or regressive rates in the anti roll bar as a tuning device. Why not?
 
Interesting - never thought about this before. Sure - regressive since rate softens as this wheel goes into bump but . . . during cornering the other wheel is going into droop so the bar rate for it is stiffening. Overall result - jacking??

je suis charlie
 
My thought was to maximise the ratio of shock/sta bar force to get better control of the essentially underdamped sta bar when cprnering. As we have discussed elsewhere, any non linear rate is likely to prove too difficult to tune for a weekend racer.

Cheers

Greg Locock


New here? Try reading these, they might help FAQ731-376
 
Check me out on this. Depending on the angle of the ARB arms as shown in the photo by TC3000, you could get a center of gravity that either rises slightly or falls slightly in a corner. My gut says this is wrong but I can't prove it.
 
I think you're going to get a little 'heave' with your roll anyway.

Norm
 
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