Steel Stud overhanging Slab Edge

[fredPE]

This is a problem that I am sure somebody else has run into, so I am just throwing this on here to see if somebody else has a ready made solution.

I have a Podium slab with steel stud bearing walls coming down and bearing on the slab. The podium slab is poured, and some of the exterior walls layout so that their outside flange is overhanging the slab edge (1/2" to 3/4" typical, but up to 2" in one isolated extreme case).

These exterior studs don't have a lot of load typically, but enough to make me worry about that outside flange. We have brick veneer cladding to cover up whatever fix we come up with.

I was thinking either cantilevering a steel plate 3/16" or 1/4" at each stud, or to add a 3.5" or 4" steel stud capable of supporting all of the load immeadiately adjacent to our 6" stud (this is probably the most expensive). Any other ideas?

 

[csd72]

How about an angle anchored to the face of the concrete and with the horizontal leg cut back to match the outside edge of the stud.

csd

 

[DaveAtkins]

I wouldn't do anything. If the vertical reaction can enter the stud through the portion which IS bearing on the slab, then the stud is OK. The reaction will cause a small amount of moment in the stud, but I bet it won't make much difference.

DaveAtkins

 

[lkjh345]

fredPE:

My humble opinion is:

For the studs overhanging up to 1", I agree with DaveAtkins. I don't think this is a big deal and probably would not do anything. I have had to intentionally do this with load bearing studs on one project (architects can get so darn annoying when fussing with little details sometimes!!) and it was no big deal.

If you want to feel more comfortable, you might consider using a heavy bottom track. Say a 14 gage Track. This can cantiver out an inch without trouble.

For the stud(s) hanging out 2", I would use the heavy bottom track and maybe reinforce the bottom few feet of the stud with another stud back-to-back to give enough material over the bearing surface. Screwing the twwo sections together to give a composite member.

JMHO

 

[fredPE]

Thanks for the input. Also, if this was a wood stud, I guess I wouldn't be too worried about a little bit of overhang, obviously.

The main thing I was worried about with the Steel Studs is that when you lose the flange area, that is a pretty large percentage of the overall stud area. Say you have a 600S162-43 Stud overhanging 1", the overall area is .447 in^2, while the area on the bearing portion of the stud gets reduced to .31 in^2 (approximately 30% reduction). Of course this totally neglects any benefit from having the bottom track, so maybe not such a big deal.

Attaching something to the face of the slab is an option, but in some cases I have PT Tendon anchors, which will conflict with the anchors enough times to cause a problem.

There is not much load on these studs, but the wall is 4 stories, so it is something that I want to keep on solid footing if I can help it.

 

[UcfSE]

Tracks have a radius at the inside corner that doesn't allow a stud full bearing on the track, so typically only the flanges really get to transfer load. Usually the middle portion of the stud isn't effective anyway. There could be cases where the gravity load is large enough to squash the stud into full bearing, of course, and so on.

I would go with the small stud to reinforce the bearing end of the stud, or check the track. With the track, you are checking weak-axis bending as a cantiliever, so you may have a hard time depending on the design overhang and the gravity load. I would assume half the stud load goes to each flange and use that to figure the thickness of the track to support the stud.