Studs on sloped foundation 2

[palves]

I'm working on an existing house that has several continuous strip footings that are sloped. This means that the sill plate is also sloped, and the stud ends are cut at an angle so they can rest on this sloped sill. I'm not sure why they didn't step the footing, but slope it they did and now we have to deal with it. My question is whether there is any guidance for how these studs should be braced/blocked/etc. so that the bottom of each stud doesn't kick out like it seems prone to do. I searched the code, and online, but have come up empty which is why I'm asking all of you. Let me know your thoughts!

 

[XR250]

Why are the studs bearing directly on the footing? Is there not a foundation wall?

 

[phamENG]

I'd really like to see a picture of that. Not only because it sounds intriguing, but also because I can think of a lot of reasons why it would be a non-issue, but would need to see the condition.

 

[palves]

The studs bear on the sill, not the footing. I've also attached a picture of one of the conditions that actually does have a brace installed, but most other conditions don't. And the main thrust of my question is just to see if there is a code provisions addressing this situation.

 

[dold]

If it were my house and I was really worried about it, maybe you could just run a SDS or Timberhex screw or something through the wide side toe of the stud into the sill plate from the downhill side if youre looking for an in-situ fix. I have no code refs, etc., to back that up but I'd feel fuzzier.

Or, if youre keen on doing it 'right' you could notch a flat spot into the sill plate and install new studs on the flat spots. Looks like a 3x sill. Plenty of meat left.

 

[SlideRuleEra]

I would block between the bottoms of the studs (shown in red) even if "code" does not require action:

http://www.SlideRuleEra.net

 

[phamENG]

Properly installed toe nails would likely do the job - easy enough to run the numbers. If you don't feel good about that, sheath one side of the wall where you don't have services running through.

 

[ChorasDen]

What is the purpose of this wall? Looks like it has a TJI 110 installed directly overtop. TJI's aren't the best product to use as rim.

 

[dhengr]

Palves:
Didn’t the older bldg. codes have some discussion/provision for sloped ftgs. up to a curtain slope and then they had to be stepped? What was the rationale/logic there? We know that there is some friction component there, but the question is how much comfort does that give you as the EOR, either at the soil/ftg., conc. wall/sill pl., or the sill pl./stud end interface? That brace you show does help stabilize the whole wall section, expect there are only a few nails into the sill pl., so how much bracing? That brace does nothing for the left two studs, as regards their slope-cut lower ends on the sill pl., and a couple toenails doesn’t do much either. And, if you figure some sliding load component on that whole wall section, that one A.B., we can see, isn’t much either. Now, add in your EQ design considerations, and see how you like it.

You might take a 10-12” long 2x block, laying flat and nailed to the sill pl., with a plumb-cut end to mate with a stud. You could sheath that whole section of wall, but you might have to add a couple A.B’s. also.

 

[Ron247]

All I see is you now have a lateral component to your reaction to check out. As a carpenter, I would add the blocks as Slide suggests for 2 reasons. It is not hard to do and if you do not, someone will probably always question this. You have already reviewed it, but no one in the future would know that.