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Supporting Brick Veneer on Sloped Wood Roof 1

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T_Bat

Structural
Jan 9, 2017
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Hey everyone,

I have a job with a brick wrapped cupola. At the case where the veneer sits on the down slope, I'm not sure how to support it. I'm thinking of ripping some blocking to so that my brick angle can sit flat (no bent plate) and I can tie it back to the cupola framing. I assume they architect can flash behind the brick, over the angle, and down the blocking. Has anyone ever run across this before?

Capture_klggtz.jpg


For the other direction, I'm planning to follow the IRC provisions and weld tabs to the angle.
 
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The Canadian codes do allow masonry to be supported on wood provided it is engineered to accommodate movements due to shrinkage of the wood.
 
Which obviously falls into the minor exceptions category. I would like to see your details for accommodating shrinkage of the support for a rigid cladding system that is bigger than a suitcase. And it isn't only shrinkage, wood swells too. Both movements take place annually and anyone who ignores them is destined to learn about them.
 
There are 2 details I have seen in the IRC for brick over a roof. I do not have access to the details right now. While I prefer the one where the vertical leg fastened to the studs (possibly double studs required), the one where the angle sets over triple rafters below has bothered me because I do not see where they ever fastened the angle to the support below.

I have seen projects where solid blocking was placed between the studs so the angle could be randomly punched rather than laid out to match the stud location, I have found the blocking completely pulled loose several times because it was toe-nailed to the wall studs. So if you do that option, design the blocking also. I think the details have a limit of 12'-8" tall of brick.

As far as a thin veneer appearance brick, I just got through with house that rotted because they sliced the brick and then glued it like tile. No air-gap and water just went straight into the wood.

As far as waterproofing, I always put a BIG note that it is not my responsibility and intentionally do not show any waterproofing. I generally am not the person deciding to put brick over a wood roof.

Lastly, the wall setting on that steep of a slope needs to be designed with the base connection in mind. And L/600 max deflection is still in play, so the trusses need to be stiff enough.
 
Probably not a bad idea to transfer the load through the studs. The IRC details Ron is referring to are below:


I’m really not a fan of either of them as the first calls for lagging into the face of double studs, which is questionable to begin with and is difficult to construct, the other one is wood support, which most people tend to shy away from. I’ve attached a detail I’ve used in the past. Double blocking every other stud with a Simpson gusset clip on the back to transfer the load, I’ve since changed to 2-2x10 blocking and added the jack studs under the angle like on the bulliten Joel posted and kept the gusset clip, unfortunately I don’t have the updated detail handy . With this configuration I think you can just the numbers, even when considering the eccentricity for veneer heights under 10 foot and the quality assurance of the installation is better than the IRC details.

 
Thanks for the input everyone. I understand the hesitations for brick on a wood roof - not my decision and this is a very small area. I've discussed the importance of the flashing details with the arch and added notes for the arch and contractor.

txeng - I've used similar details for a brick relif angle on a wood building before. I didn't think of a jack stud though - that would have made the blocking connections much easier...
 
Excellent news!

I like the look of the brick up top, but it really is costly and difficult to install properly.

The contractor should be thanking you because he is the one that most likely would be stuck with the water leak headaches.
 
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