Timber lagging connection detail??? 2

[BurgoEng]

For the life of me I can not locate a detail showing (or at least expalaining) how timber lagging for a soldier pile wall should be connect to the pile. Anyone know or can point me in some direction?

 

[dik]

I've generally inserted the lagging into the space between the flanges and provided blocking to keep it from moving...

Dik

 

[BurgoEng]

I know that the lagging goes in-between the flanges but there is no mechanical anchoring to the pile? It's just "wedged" in-between the flanges with the blocking? Maybe this is why I can't find any details for it.

 

[dik]

That's all I've done... Dik

 

[PEinc]

The lagging is either tucked behind the front flanges or is attached to the front face of the front flange.

When tucking the lagging behind the front flanges, cut the lagging just short enough that it can be inserted between the two soldier beams. e.g. If the soldier beams are HP12 at 8' c.c., the lagging should be about 7'-4" or 7'-5" long. You can attach the lagging to the front flanges with stick-welded, threaded, 1/2" dia. studs, nuts, and steel plates about 3" x 8" x about 3/8" with the hole slightly off center so that the plates bear equally on the upper and lower lagging boards. If you attach the lagging, you should buy uniform width lagging so that the studs can be uniformly laid out and welded If I am using 3" x 10" lagging, the studs would be installed in pairs, every 12" vertically along the soldier beams. NJDOT usually wants treated lagging. They have usually accepted treated-to-refusal mixed hardwoods (not kiln-dried).

Again, call me if you have any questions. It's easier and faster than using the forum.

 

[DRC1]

Generally sil friction hods the boards. in order to keep lower boards from droping, esp. in looser sands, firring strips are nailed to the face, whick ties the lower boards to the upper ones

 

[PEinc]

If your lagging boards want to drop when you excavate the next lower lift, that means that the previously installed boards do not have satisfactory contact with the soils behind the boards. Lagging boards should be in good contact with the dirt. If you have good contact, you don't need any furring strips nailed to the lagging. If, when you excavate for the next lower lagging lift, the dirt runs out from the above previously-installed lagging boards, then you are not installing the lagging correctly or you are using lagging in very loose soils that should not have lagging. Use steel sheeting?

When I see a lagged wall with lots of furring strips, it tells me that the contractor isn't very experienced with lagging.

Generally, the only connections used with tucked lagging boards are 2 nails at each end of each board. The nails are hammered into the boards right next to the edges of the soldier beam flanges and are then hammered over the front of the flanges. These nails are used during installation to keep the lagging boards from shifting sideways and to assure sufficient bearing at each end of the boards.