Tools I would like to be able to buy !

[Thecardoc]

As an automotive technician, and NOT an engineer, nor someone with even the slightest ability to draw I often have ideas for a tool to make my job easier but no way to create them. Frankly I don't really care much about the process required for patenting etc. anyway so tell you what. Here's what I want, someone make it!

Air Chiesls (hammers) have been around for a while. But there is one specific use that they would be great for, but the repeating nature of the tool defeats any real chance of doing so because you cannot control it once it starts hammering. The use would be to install freeze plugs in the side of the engine block, which often means the tool would have to operate at an angle. It also must be able to hammer in single shots per trigger pull for precise control. One added advantage would be if the hammer strength could be adjusted as well from a slight tap, to the equivelent of a full arm swing with a 20oz hammer. When confined by clearances, many times a technician cannot get any room to swing a hammer, but a properlly built tool would not need the space that a regular hammer would. As far as the "angle" portion of the tool goes, I have some ideas but they would need drawn and tested for practicality as well as durability.

OK There it is, You build it, you can claim it. But someone build it for me!!!!

There are more ideas from where that one comes (VBG)....

 

[evelrod]

I just watched "No Country for Old Men"---Seems like someone has something similar available. Use a pressure regulator and don't go off killing folks for fun and it might just be the hot setup. ;-)

Rod

 

[thruthefence]

A 3X rivet gun ( an aviation tool, not an air hammer, tho they have a similar appearance) can be regulated down to very low cyclic rates. The trigger, plus a valve on the air inlet allows very easy "taps". I'm not sure it would meet your needs, but they are available fairly cheap on ebay, under "aviation tools". You could make the 'set' according to your needs on a lathe.

 

[Thecardoc]

Thanks for starting to at least talk about this. I have not seen the movie, but it's on my list....

As far as I know, there is no tool beiog produced that would act as I have outlined. The single hammer hit is simply not in use at this time, and a low cyclic rate, simply wont work because of the precision that must be used with each strike. The tool must be positioned precisely, then struck, then repositioned, and then struck again until the task is completed. A multiple strike could allow the tool to be misspositioned and then the soft plug or surrounding material damaged when the next cycle automatically occurs.

 

[tomwalz]

Try posting on practicalmachinist.com.

Folks there know an awful lot about tools.

All I can think of is the nail driver that uses something like a .22 blank.

Thomas J. Walz
Carbide Processors, Inc.

http://www.carbideprocessors.com

 

[KENAT]

evelrod, haven't seen the movie but would that be a 'bolt gun' typically from a slaughter house?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captive_bolt_pistol

Be careful when you google this, you'll get a bunch of sites by PETA and the like showing animals mistreated etc. in slaughter houses. Might put you off burgers for a few hours.

KENAT, probably the least qualified checker you'll ever meet...

 

[ivymike]

something along these lines?

http://www.columbiamt.com/Hand Tools/Air Hammer/Air_hammer.htm

http://www.ipnews.com/archives/lasers/aug97/columbia_mark.htm

I think you're looking for a "single action" or "single blow" air hammer... that terminology may help your search

 

[ivymike]

here's one for when you need to make the car do a backflip:

http://www.powerhammer.com/

 

[KENAT]

Nice one ivy, I was thinking something like this must exist for Peening/Staking and that's listed as its use on one of the sites you gave.

KENAT, probably the least qualified checker you'll ever meet...

 

[ivymike]

more options:

http://www.michiganpneumatic.com/customer/mipnto/pdf/air_hammers.pdf

(tap object for single blow)

http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h3142_m.pdf

 

[Thecardoc]

Wow, that's a start. Now we just need to be able to use it at an angle, instead of only straight on. This is where the real engineering comes in, we not only have to operate at an angle, (several different angles potentially) but the tool must be able to control recoil away from the assembly, without using up too much of the operators skin. VBG.. For generic starters I'm thinking removeable heads to transfer the impact to 30degrees, 45 degrees 60 degrees, and 90 degrees from the initial tool stroke.

 

[MacGyverS2000]

Unless you can wedge the tool into place, you're going to have a difficult time getting anything to transfer energy around a 90-degree corner ;-)

Dan - Owner

http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com

 

[ivymike]

could just use the big one, and put it against the side of the car in approximately the right location...

 

[evelrod]

Hello, Isaac. Still up there in snow country?

I think the 'big one' against the side of the car would work but would necessitate a dramatic change in the shop's liability insurance policy! ;-)

Rod

 

[Thecardoc]

That big one is an amazing piece of equipment. I can say it could be somewhat gratifying to get to use it on a few cars that I've dealt with in the past, but that has nothing to do with "fixing" them, VBG...

Anyway, I hope someone can figure out how to make the tool that I would like to have. The current tools designed for this operation are terribly inadequate, and there has never been a real solution except for removing the engine so that there is straight on access to drive in the replacement plugs. (FWIW, bolt in plugs have a high failure rate)

 

[ivymike]

so how often do you come across cars where the block core plugs have come out?

 

[Thecardoc]

Often enough to justify improving the methods available to service them. Even with a small shop like mine it can range from as high as one to two times a month, and then of course drop down to as few as only a couple of times a year. There are many soft plugs, such as the ones at the rear of the block (flywheel area) that simply cannot be serviced without removing the engine or transaxle. But there are far more on the sides of the block, either above part of the transaxle or in the front of the vehicle (radiator side) where there is as little as 5 inches clearance which means there is no room to drive the replacement soft plug in.

 

[patprimmer]

I just push them in with a tyre lever if space is restricted.

I have never seen one come out of it's own accord. I have only ever replaced them because of corrosion. I only ever use brass replacements. I do play with boats that are cooled with raw water, sometimes salt water.

Regards

eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.

 

[Thecardoc]

Cars use steel (?) ones and they are quite stiff. I rarely if ever see brass ones. As far as prying them in that would still require room to do so as well as something to pry against that wont break. Both restrictions that make that method quite unlikely to succeed. Oh, and yes the primary failure is corrosion. If someone manages to freeze an engine and have push them out they likely have even greater problems than the loss of the plug. Soft plugs never get re-used, new would always go back in.

 

[kenre]

OEM plugs are usually steel, replacement ones brass.

I have replaced them many time using a socket of the appropiate size, and a heavy short handled square headed hammer, only need an inch of room to swing one enough to fit them.

I have heard of an expansion plug, rubber with a screw that is tightened to expand them. No idea how well they last.

http://www.retallickeng.com.au

Was told it couldnt be done, so
i went and did it!