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use of angled iron instead of 2x6 header in wood construction

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jooferna

Electrical
Jan 12, 2011
3
thread507-186777 We usually use an Angled iron header (lintel) when we insert a door or window into a brick wall
opening. Could we use this angled iron header in a wood construction two floor home ( Ground floor & first floor)??
This is because there is only 2 1/2",- 3 inches between the top of the window frame and the double top plate supporting the ground floor ceiling joists.The exterior walls are framed with 2X6 @ 16" apart. Ideally I would like to insert 2 pcs of 2X6 X 5' spruce vertically above the window (4'x4') as the window header but I don't have the room for it. Any suggestions about inserting iron headers. Where can I find info on this ??

 
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No problem using a steel header as long as its properly designed. I prefer using 2 angle irons back to back cause
it just looks more stable.

Another option, which may be easier for you is to flush the header on top of the window inside the floor system.
The header would sit continuously over the wall plate, however it would be designed to span the window opening.

The you can just rip down a 2x6 to fill in the gap over the window.

I assume you have a 2nd story on top? If so you can use the same header depth as your 2nd floor joists.

Hope this helps.



_________________
C
 
The connections of the angle to the king studs could get a little tricky. And you are adding steel angles to a wood framer's scope, and they will presumably have to special order a couple of angles and have holes punched in it.

I don't exactly follow XL, but something similar would be to interrupt the top plate over the window and that will give you an additional 3" depth of the header. Try a paralam or other engineered lumber if regular lumber is not working. If you are using the top plate as a chord for the floor diaph. you will need to add some flat straps for tension continuity.
 
In the thread you quoted, they were taling about attaching an angle lintel for brick veneer to a microlam header.

If I understand you correctly, you are talking of installing a steel angle header in a brick wall - totally different situation.

I recently inspected an older (30's era) masonry building that had seriously deteriorated wood headers for exterior doors. Years earlier, in Pioneer Square in Seattle - circa 1900 construction - I ran into another masonry building that had steel angle headers that were in great shape.

Use the double angles...

Mike McCann
MMC Engineering
Motto: KISS
Motivation: Don't ask
 
Thank you XLJ, THank2, & masquarde. I am going for the back to back 2"X 3" unequal legs ( 3/16th wall thickness) L beams 5 ft. spans centered on top of the window frame, on either side of the wall plate and fill the gap between the top of the window frame and the bottom of the L beams with correct thickness wood.The 3" part of the L beam will be hugging the bottom side of the wall plates. Hope this would be ok.

I am also considering if it would be better to have the 3" part of the L beam sitting flat on top of the Window frame instead of hugging the bottom of the wall plates as above and fill the gap with correct size wood . any suggestions as to which method is better ???
 
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