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Waterproofing a Closed off Concrete Wall Section's Joints 1

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JoelTXCive

Civil/Environmental
Jul 24, 2016
921
An existing wastewater treatment plant’s intake headworks are being remodeled.

We are closing off a small wall section in the headworks of the plant. The wall section is only 2ft wide by 4ft tall. Structurally, we can dowel in all around the opening, and then mirror the existing wall’s reinforcing.

My question is on waterproofing the joint? How can I best do this?

I was thinking we could ‘grind in’ a notch into the existing concrete and then grout a rubber waterstop of some sort. I have not seen a detail on this procedure, so am not sure it would work.

Maybe just having a cold joint would be sealed enough? I really do not know.

Any input on the joint would be appreciated.

Thank you.

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its only 4 feet high, so hydraulic pressure is minimal. normally I would want to install a pvc waterstop, but that would require sawcutting which would be difficult on the bottom corner at the floor. plus you run the risk of cutting existing rebar. assuming this will will not move at all, than a hydrophillic strip water stop is probably the best option. a plain cold joint with no waterstop will leak nasty water
 
Can you use bentonite 'rope'?

Dik
 
Thank you all for the input.

Another item I have not considered yet is this. I have been acting under the assumption that the existing gate could be unbolted and then the anchors cut off. I'm not sure this is the case. The little recessed notches in the walls are starting to make me think that the existing gates are cast into the walls versus being bolted onto anchors.

If the gate is cast into the walls, then it will need to be chipped out. This would leave very uneven surfaces for us to add on to. I plan on talking with the waste water department tomorrow about this issue. They made a site visit and hopefully looked at this.
 
After further examination, it seems the gates we are removing are cast into the concrete walls. (see below)

I think that they will have to be removed with a chipping hammer, which will leave a really rough uneven surface.

For water-stopping purposes, do you think that this surface needs to be grouted level? Then one of the waterstop products can be inserted or applied to the surface. Or will these products work on whatever is left over after the jack-hammering?

Thank you again.
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If you go with a product such as Hydrotite, there are methods to adhere this to a rough surface using adhesives or epoxy to provide a smooth base. Check with the waterstop manufacturer for specific details.
 
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