What are some good Threaded wood inserts w/ high pull out resistance?

[fmiller007]

Hi, guys.

Me and my father are working on a project and I just dont know WHO to go for help.

We want to mount this:

to a butcher block countertop table similar to this:

Since this is not a permanent install he wants to use threaded inserts, and told me to look them up online with the pullout resistance listed. He is afraid the inserts may pull out and damage the wood, so emphasis on the pullout resistance being listed.

The only bad thing is that the only wood threaded inserts with their pullout resistance listed is Groov-pin (whom only ships their product out in bags of 100 for $70-- obviously out of the question)

Does anyone know of any threaded inserts with high pullout resistance that I can install into the wood? If so, do you know the approximate lbs. of resistance it can take? I cant seem to find this info anywhere. 1/4-20 size. Thanks.

 

[MikeHalloran]

I would be inclined to use TeeNuts, driven into the bottom side of through-drilled holes, and long machine screws completely through the top.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-tee-nuts/=fslsuv

Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

 

[hydtools]

Try Woodcraft:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001048/2001048.aspx

Or a hardware store in the fasteners section.

Ted

 

[dik]

I'd look at mounting the 'grinder' onto a wood base and clamping it to the table as not to damage the table.

Dik

 

[fmiller007]

Hi dik,

Yes. This was the very first thing I told my father about but he didnt' like the idea.

Hi hydtools.

That site was actually one of the first websites my dad told me to look on. We didnt and unfortunately it had no pull-out resistance lbs. of strength listed at all, so he decided to not go that route.

Intersting MikeHallorin... what would be the benefit to doing what you described as opposed to in the original post?

thanks all

 

[IRstuff]

Seriously? The Tee-nuts would essentially be impossible to pull out, since they would be on the bottom of the table. But, of course, if you're going to drill all the way through, then just using a washer and a regular nut or wing-nut would seem to also apropos, and wouldn't involve any other damage to the wood, other than the hole itself.

TTFN
faq731-376

 

[hydtools]

The insert with the highest pullout resistance would be the Teenut.

Why not just use small lag screws if you are going to create holes for inserts and plan on removing screws anyway?

I presume you do not want to use screw studs and wing nuts because you want a clear top when the grinder is not in use.

Ted

 

[dik]

Those ugly holes are forever! Shame to spoil that lovely old table...

Dik

 

[MikeHalloran]

You could drive a brass or plastic sleeve into the through-hole above the Tee-Nut and make it look fairly decent. ... for a hole. That also gives you the option of dropping a dowel into the hole when you aren't using it.

The big virtue of Tee-Nuts, aside from being near impossible to pull out, is that you don't have to fuss with washers or nuts below the tabletop, or worry about them falling off and getting lost.

Also, since the threaded part of the Tee-Nut is within the wood, neither the mounting screw nor the Tee-Nut's flange (given a shallow counterbore) has to project below the bottom surface of the wood. ... so you could mount a drawer there without worrying about the nuts or screws fouling it.

If you go with the clamp-on, you could put the Tee-Nuts into shallow counterbores in the bottom of the sub-block, so the sub-block doesn't have to be particularly thick.




Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

 

[dik]

Just to drive the point home, and to step on to my apple box...

His great grandchildren, can lovingly point to those holes in the future and fondly remark, "My great grand dad did that!"

Dik

 

[MikeHalloran]

I suppose you could drill and chisel some 1/2" square holes through the tabletop, and make and fit some brass inserts with 1/4-20 holes through the center, say from 3/4" square or round brass stock with 1/2" square shanks, and 1/4" thick flanges below the countertop. They'd at least look like they were intended to be there.

I couldn't find anything like that from stock, but it's the sort of thing you could make. If you don't have a mill, you'll be doing a lot of filing.



Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

 

[fmiller007]

Thanks all!

 

[KENAT]

If the table is flat enough/non porous...

Stick suction cups on the 4 mounting points on the grinder.

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