wheel time hole sizes 1

[Qrdemol]

I have checked size of the holes on my trailer and they are 18.5mm. Studs on the hub are M14. What effect/ what forces will this effect on the wheel?

I am guessing lug nuts are centered on the cone.

Is this design correct?

 

[BrianPetersen]

I have checked size of the holes on my trailer and they are 18.5mm. Studs on the hub are M14. What effect/ what forces will this effect on the wheel? I am guessing lug nuts are centered on the cone. Is this design correct?

I have checked size of the holes on my trailer and they are 18.5mm. Studs on the hub are M14. What effect/ what forces will this effect on the wheel? I am guessing lug nuts are centered on the cone. Is this design correct?

It would sure help us in the rest of the world if we knew what sort of trailer this is, where the wheels came from, where the axle came from, where the nuts came from, whether the wheels are the correct ones to be used on that axle, whether the nuts are the correct ones to use with those wheels, and whether the wheels are properly hub-centric over a pilot diameter on the spindle!

There are several different designs of wheel nuts/bolts, some having conical interface, some having spherical interface, and they are NOT compatible.

"it is just a guess" but I am guessing that 18.5mm holes sounds like too much clearance to M14 studs and I am therefore guessing that your wheels are mismatched to the spindles.

 

[BrianPetersen]

Having just done the winter-tire swap on my car (GM), it has M14 studs also, and I just ran downstairs to check. The aftermarket wheels and matched wheel nuts (not OEM) have a conical interface and the holes in the wheels are 14.8mm diameter, which is what one would expect for M14 fasteners to go through. 18.5mm holes would barely catch the outside of the nuts.

You've got mismatched parts.

 

[GregLocock]

We used to have wheelnuts with very thick washers somehow crimped onto them. Even so 4.5mm clearance sounds madly excessive even for a hub centric design (which I have never come across in practice)

 

[Lou Scannon]

Even so 4.5mm clearance sounds madly excessive even for a hub centric design (which I have never come across in practice)

That is an interesting, but cryptic comment. Care to elaborate?

 

[MintJulep]

Offered without endorsement: https://www.machinedesign.com/faste...ce-between-lug-centric-and-hub-centric-wheels

 

[GregLocock]

I've never seen hub centric wheels in practice. I know they exist.

 

[IFRs]

One of my older cars had hub centric wheels but the studs were still a relatively slose fit, nothing like the gaps the OP has noted.

 

[LionelHutz]

I believe the comment refers to the fact that the hub can't support the wheel during vehicle operation unless it is an interference fit. Otherwise, the hub would wear out the center of the wheel as it moved around inside the wheel opening.

Best case, the hub is used to center the wheel while it's being tightened. The wheel should never move on the hub face in operation. The clamping force of the studs holds the wheel to the hub during all vehicle operation. You get into rip the wheel and hub off the car territory before a properly installed wheel will move on a hub.

 

[CWB1]

Many antique/classic cars stateside have hub-centric wheels that are simply a very close-fit. Having grown up the NE US rust belt I hate the dam things bc the wheels frequently rust onto the hubs and the lug nut hexes round-off being a thinner nut (esp if they havent been removed in decades).

 

[System Protection]

I have hub centric wheels on a car that's less than a decade old.

They are a pain to get off after a winter season.

Put some anti-seize on them this time around.

 

[LionelHutz]

Many antique/classic cars stateside have hub-centric wheels that are simply a very close-fit.

No, they were not. A close fit wheel can't be hub centric. The hub is for nothing more than centering assistance while the wheel is installed.

Put a roller pin through a roll of tape and run it across a surface. The roller pin running inside the tape is what would happen if the car was being supported by a hub with any amount of clearance. That constant movement, even if it is a very small movement, doesn't work.

I don't know why I bother even posting, the belief will perpetuate like other wrong car myths.

 

[CWB1]

The hub is for nothing more than centering assistance while the wheel is installed.

As are lug-centric chamfers/radii. The vehicle is supported by the clamp load between the wheel and axle flange, created by axial load along the lugs. There's no Z load path from wheel-->lug or wheel-->hub. Like any bolted joint, any contact between the fastener shank (lug) and the bore (wheel) is minimal and irrelevant.

Lub centric wheels are more common bc, by centering off multiple features (rather than just the hub) the wheel is statistically more likely to be centered after years of use/abuse/damage. There's also no worries about rust expansion on hubs creating an interference fit to the wheel.

 

[waross]

From Driving.ca All original equipment manufacturer (OEM) rims are hub-centric, and it’s this contact point (between the hub and the center hole of the rim) that carries the weight of the vehicle. The wheel studs or lugs are designed to resist lateral forces that are experienced when the vehicle is cornering. They are not designed to carry the weight of the vehicle.

Most of my wheels are hub-centric. The wheels on the dually are particularly tight.

 

[GregLocock]

"All original equipment manufacturer (OEM) rims are hub-centric, and it’s this contact point (between the hub and the center hole of the rim) that carries the weight of the vehicle. "

Wrong on both counts.

 

[3DDave]

Yup. Someone made up the term "hub centric" when no passenger vehicle wheels are actually hub centric.

The fact is that mounting a wheel onto the studs automatically centers the wheel with the combined effects of the conical interface at each stud. I don't know why manufacturers even bother with making such a close fit when material and time could be saved on the factory floor.

I wish there was a huge gap that can't fill with rust and then require a sledge hammer or heavy kicking to a vehicle up on a jack on the dark road side in the rain, when the flat tire most often occurs.

Why is it even round rather than having large reliefs as that is all that is required to do a job it is designed for - like those inserts for 45 RPM records to be played on a turntable for 78s or LPs. Or just bevel the hub and then no need for that taper detail on the rim, which would also avoid the rust problem.

 

[waross]

Yup. Someone made up the term "hub centric" when no passenger vehicle wheels are actually hub centric.

I wish there was a huge gap that can't fill with rust and then require a sledge hammer or heavy kicking to a vehicle up on a jack on the dark road side in the rain, when the flat tire most often occurs.

?????

 

[3DDave]

Waross, it's called the rust belt for a reason.

 

[CapriRacer]

Just so everyone understands, car manufacturers have hub piloted wheels - that is the center hub centers the wheel onto the hub. The lugs or lugnuts are there to clamp the wheel to the hub. I know of no exceptions.

The hub is tapered and a "close" fit - that is there is a small amount of clearance.

Why do they do this? If the lugs are used to center the wheel, the wheel isn't as centered as it is with a hub piloted system. That's because it is difficult to get the studs all at the right location, perpendicular to the hub surface, as well as getting the lug holes in the wheel in the right location. In other words, it is easier, and more consistent to center the wheel on a tapered hub than to use the lugs for centering.

 

[GregLocock]

say max acceptable oob is 5g, and its a 16" wheel, so 100 g cm. Wheel weighs 15 kg (?) so max radial clearance to hub if hub centric is 100/15000 cm, about 3 thou. Hmm.