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Wiring a full keyless ignition on car *diagrams included*

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ProjectTinCan

Mechanical
Dec 25, 2006
3
US
I am looking to get help on correctly wiring a keyless ignition setup. (Ford Escort) incase anybody is a tech and knows their ignitions really well.

The cars ignition, has two plugs running to the key tumbler. One has 6 wires, the other has 2 wires. Here are a few diagrams, of the plugs, and a bit of information on when the 6 wires on the larger plug are hot or not.





The plan, is to have the red covered arming switch, turn on what would have been "acessory mode" on the key ignition.

The push button, should start the car up, only when the arming switch, is set to the "on" posotion.

While the car is running, turning off the arming switch, should shut off/down the entire car and put no drain on the battery.

Based on the information I have here, and photos can anybody help me figure out which of those 8 wires, needs to attatch to which of the 3 wires on my switch panel? It's just a bit to complicated for me to understand.. Any help would be much appreciated. If Any more infromation or diagrams are necessary, please post here and let me know what I am missing to help solve this wiring equation?

- Thanks
 
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It seems that you need another button or switch. The arming switch is taking the place of the "accessory" feature of your standard ignition, but you have no replacement for the "Run" position of the standard ignition. I would suggest a 3 position toggle switch in place of your arming switch. The 3 positions would be Off, accessory, and run. Then stick with the push button starter.

Once this is done, the wiring should be fairly simple.

Please keep us posted on any changes you have made.

-Reidh

 
Ah, thats what I forgot to mention, alright sorry about that.

I'm trying to figure out a way to skip the "acessory mode" and just click it on, to run, than push button to start the car.

I'm not sure if thats at all possible, but I never used acessory mode in my life, so I just assumed I could get rid of it totally.

Any idea if that would be possible, and if so, any idea what to wire in that case?
 
As long as you don't want to listen to the radio, run the wipers, etc. with the engine off, you won't need the accessory mode. This usually is for running those accessories without running items such as the fuel pump (which can burn up if the pump is left to run w/o flow)

That being said, if you still don't want the accessory mode then:

It would seem that wires 1,2,3,5,and 6 would need to be hot when your Run switched is flipped to on. Wire 4 needs to be hot when the start button is engaged.

Thus, it looks like from your picture that wires 1,2,3,5,and 6 need to be wired to the terminal that the red wire is currently attached, and wire 4 should be attached where the yellow wire is currently attached.

I assume that the 2 wire clip have positive and negative leads from the batter. If this is the case, the positive leads need to be hooked up where the yellow and red wires are, and the negative lead needs to be attached to where the black wires are.

Good Luck!

-Reidh

 
Ignore the last paragraph of my previous post.

The hot wire from your battery clip needs to go to one terminal on each the switch and the button, and wires 1,2,3,5,and 6 need to go to the other terminal on the switch while wire 4 needs to go to the other terminal on the button.

Forgive me for my previous post, still recovering from my holiday.

-Reidh
 
I read your message a few times and I think I finally understand it. (becuause all the acessories the ignition runs when on, are grounded themselves, no negative is neded at all... so with that being said.)

If you could please double check my work before I go cutting out my cars key tumbler / ignition to do the keyless? Here is a wire schematic I made out of the information as I understand it. Please correct me if I am wrong?

The other thing I wondered, is does it matter which +12V lead, I send to the switch, and to the starter button? do I need to test one with the key tumbler, and see which one turns on and when?


BTW: Good thing I won't need acessories to run with out the car being on, because I have no HVAC, or radio in this car.. it's kinda my little Auto-X track car project.
 
Your schematic looks sensible from what information we have.

I would guess that it does matter which 12 V lead is being used for starting and which is being used for run. Since the starter has a high current draw, thicker cables may be used upstream of the two pin connector on the starter wire. It is an easy test with a voltmeter to determine which wire is the run and which one is start.



-Reidh
 
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